Quote:
|
Originally Posted by ryanjantz
I have a 1994 Ford Ranger/Manual Tranny. A few weeks ago i noticed it was getting hard to shift and eventually became very hard. I discovered that my clutch fluid reservior was empty. When i filled it up it became much easier to shift but the clutch was still a little mushy. so upon further studying online decided that air must've gotten into my clutch line when it was empty and it needed to be bled.
I must've not been thinking when i started bleeding because i loosened the bleed screw and then pumped the clutch in and out. obviously all this was doing was pumping air into my line. once i realized my mistake i gave it a day and then tried bleeding correctly according to Auto Zone's guide here.. .do you push the clutch all the way to the floor before opening the bleeder valve?it stays on the floor and then tighten it again,then let the clutch up and then push to floor and open valve,it should only be open when clutch all the way down.i had '94 ranger manual.but prior to me ever getting it bleed successfully,i took a chance in replacing the hydraulic line from the master to the slave.i had replaced everything but that,the line had a small leak apparently,never could see it either.once replaced,it bled quickly.
AutoZone.com | Repair Info | Ford Ranger/Explorer/Mountaineer 1991-1999 | Drive Train
immediately when i loosen the bleed screw clear clutch fluid comes out, not bubbly or anything. i can tighten it and repeat it forever without any effect. if i let it drain for just a second or two it stops and nothing comes out. is this where the air bubble is? i can let it set open for a while and still nothing bleeds from it. and my clutch is complete mush. is bleeding correctly going to fix this problem? like i said, before i pumped air into my line, it worked fairly well, so i don't know what else it could be, i just can't figure our this bleeding thing.
do you guys have any suggestions or more questions. please let me know, i'd like to have a functioning truck again, thanks! |
are you bleeding it correctly.the pedal should be all the way to the floor before you open bleeder valve,let the air out and tighten it before you let the clutch up.push it down again to floor and then open valve,close it and let clutch up.if this is not it, like mine was,i replaced the hydraulic line from the master to the slave(the only part i had not replaced)that fixed it.apparently it had a leak,and you could not see it.