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Originally Posted by bigsky
Thanks for the replies. The mechanic I am working with is not a big fan of oil additives for this problem (he recommends a couple of "quick" 1k changes with a "normal" routine to follow). His prognosis on the engine is not good...around 20k then get something else. But... I know another mechanic who is (a fan of additives)...he is even suggesting a little ATF (for a very short period) to help clear out the sludge. Dropping the pan after additives and cleaning sounds like a good idea. And...that ever present question...at what point is it better to "punt" (go for a different car)? Gives a guy a lot of motivation to start tearing the engine apart and learning how the darn thing works (of course with manuals and having a spare car available while learning)!
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I just rebuilt the engine in my 92 Lesabre. It was a major, major job. It took me about 8 weeks. There are many steps that are critical to do right. All in all it would be good to have someone with more experience help you on the first one. That said, if you decide to do it, it is not undoable. Getting a Haynes manual and an official GM manual is a huge bonus (you'll need at least the Haynes--which will not be entirely clear!). The biggest part of the job is the cleaning of the parts. That took me at least 3-4 weeks. I cleaned everything throroughly, installed new main bearings, new rod bearings, a new camshaft (a ground lobe was the cause of my rough running engine and the reason I took it apart), a new lifter (the others were in great shape), a new timing chain and gears, and of course all new gaskets. You have to clean everything in solvent with wire brushes (unless you have access to power cleaners such as machine shops use). It is very slow work.
The biggest secret to staying organized is to get a notebook or legal pad and document each step you take as a numbered entry. For every part removed, put it in a ziploc with the corresponding number of the step in which you took it off, and also note the size of the nut or bolt, etc. and also the locations with diagrams (especially where there are different size fasteners in different spots within the same steps). You will also need to create a duplicate set of ziplocs for the parts AFTER they have been cleaned (you can't use the same old dirty ziploc). You need an engine stand to reassemble the engine. Keep in mind that if you reassemble the whole engine on a stand, then running the wires exactly where they were may be impossible (which is okay, it will still work, but you may not be able to put the "3800" plastic piece back on the engine--as in my case--but I don't care as the piece is only cosmetic.)
Lastly, the only good way to remove the sludge is to take the engine apart and clean it.