Thanks everyone for your kind comments.
A bit of update:
I realized a problem on the "nose" of my GTO: too many layers of decals and paint, too much transparent white decals: was better after a light sanding and a clearcoat but not perfect. So I decided to sand down clearcoat, decals and a bit of color
not the happyest work in the wordl. This time I rescribed gaskets lines around windows and... I redone transparents trought warmcast.
Everyone own a Fujimi 550/575 know that the worst parts are transparent's fittings: body shell isn't beveled inside and.. the fit is not perfect and you'll see a good mm of air in few points from body and winshied top: not well engineered. No problem: aren't we modellers? Where's teh fun? Doing hard adventures (to me at least
)
By steps:
I drawn the transp. part outline (base) on a balsa wood at start and on a plywood after broken the balsa
, than I fix with clay the tarsparent (we'll call it mould from now) leaving some mm under it. May be someone will have some better results with a stronger mould like a resin cast piece: I want to try with the original part and all come ok.
Than I warm up the acetate board (fixed to the plywood/balsa) with a body shop's phon (few bucks at hardstone, no professional stuff) and push the wood trought the mould.
Nothing difficult: some attempt was neede only to find out the better material (girl's sexy slip box
) since the bords from my LHS was quetly thick and those done some micro-bubbles after heating. With thin acetate all was ok.
I treced outlines with a felt marker and cut out with some lexan scissors wich I use on RCs: definitely better than std. scissors.
Now transparents are quetly dirty (alcohol bath to remove felt pen is needed) but suit perfect this beast windows: I done also some other few mods, I blind out the third window: I plan to replace it with a carbon pattern with the original window shape (aka 911GT)
Thanks to read
ciao
giovanni