[BNaylor]

The problem is when disabling the ABS braking system the traction control system and low tire monitor will be disabled along with it. You can temporarily disable ABS by pulling the ABS fuse but it is not recommended. Conventional braking will still work, however, you will have the ABS and Trac lights on constantly. Poor quality or worn rotors or pads will affect how efficiently the ABS will work.

When compressing the caliper piston it helps to loosen the bleeder valve on that respective caliper.

As for overall system bleeding you bleed ABS the same as conventional.

Make sure the master cylinder is topped off with brake fluid and recheck during bleeding process. Attach a small rubber hose to the brake caliper nipple and let the other end hang inside an empty container. Ask your assistant to firmly and quickly press on the pedal 3 times, and hold it down the third time. Then, open up the bleed nipple by unscrewing it slightly. Brake fluid should come rushing out and the pedal should sink to the floor. Make sure that your assistant doesn’t remove their foot from the pedal, as that will suck air back into the system. With the pedal still depressed to the floor, tighten up the bleed nipple. When the nipple is closed, have your assistant remove their foot from the pedal.

When you are bleeding the system, start with the wheel that is farthest away from the master cylinder, and then work your way back towards the front left wheel. In other words bleed the system in this order: right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front. Bleeding in this order will minimize the amount of air that gets into the system. Always bleed each caliper more than once, because bleeding the other calipers can dislodge air into the system. A good rule of thumb is the more you bleed, the better your brakes will be.