Quote:
|
Originally Posted by curtis73
I wouldn't worry about increased heat. Often times during a long, hard stop, brake temperatures will reach 1500 degrees or more, so the fact that its 110 degrees in Phoenix and only 90 degrees here in L.A. just doesn't make a real difference in brake pad temperature.
The ceramic pads sometimes make more heat, but their construction is such that it can handle it. The pads get much hotter than the rotors due to their size, so the ceramic pads will take a bit more heat. I wouldn't worry about it a bit. I have had mixed results with ceramic pads but in general I like them a lot. Go for it.
|
Curtis,
Sorry to keep bothering you. BTW, replaced the front roders with Roto-Tech drilled & slotted rotors. Went with Friction Peformance Corp carbon metalic pads. Used your break-in method from that cool article. Still need to replace all the system fluid. All seems well when not experiencing the following rear brake fiasco.
Have you had bad luck with Autozone shoes & hardware?
Have a 99 Durango, 5.9 with 4wd. About 2 weeks ago, I changed my rear shoes & hardware, as well as the drums. I thought everything looked good. Bought the lifetime guaranteed & hardware kit from Autozone. Got Raybestos drums from JC Whitney.
Changed one side at a time & followed the Haynes manual exactly. The only thing that made me a little nervous was that the 2 top springs ended up being installed in a different order than the original installation. But this was exactly what the Haynes manual instructed & it was supported with a picture.
After a couple days, I started getting light shaking from the rear. It got progressively worse & could be be duplicated exactly by stopping or slowing the truck with the parking brake only. This means the problem is in the rear as that's all the parking brake actuates...right?
Anyway, I pulled the drums last night & saw that the rear rod on the passenger-side cylinder had slipped off & behind the 2-week old shoe & that was apparently causing my problem. No problem on the driver side.
I pulled the top 2 springs & manual adjuster. repositioned everything & reattached everything. Haven't done a ton of rear brakes, so I compared everything to the good side & all looked fine.
Put everything back together & test drove it...all light braking. I got 1 or 2 series of shaking, not quite as bad as before. Stopped it in reverse a couple of time & that made it even better. Thought that maybe the cylinder need reset after having the rod disconnected. Within 5 minutes there was no shaking & seemed to drive normally. Drove & stopped at 10-50 mph for 10 more minutes & it was like new.
Drove to work this morning & after about 10 miles (5 at highway speed) the bad shaking has returned. Apparently, one or more cylinder rods is off again.
Din't see any leaks from the cylinders. Did not check the cylinder mounting bolts (Doh!!!) but I've never heard of them coming loose on their own when they've never been changed.
I'm thinking of replacing the shoes & hardware (after checking the mounting bolts) with either Carquest or Napa parts. Thinking that the shoes on the passenger side were manufactured incorrectly or that the new springs or other new hardware are weak.
What do you think? Could I have done something wrong that causes the rod to come out away from the brake shoe? Did not think there was a lot you could do wrong & still get it to assemble & work for 10 or 15 miles.