Thanks for your support so far.
Time to move inside the car. The Daytona’s interior was never really very “interesting” or beautiful IMO - Enzo’s boys quite rightly concentrated their efforts into much more important areas such as 12 cylinder engines and a beautiful (again, my opinion) body shape.
Also, this
was a ‘70’s car and the Daytona shows it!
Boxy areas stuck together with sparse - dare I say haphazard? - placement of very utilitarian switches. I guess the leather work was its saving grace
Fujimi do a pretty good job here but nowhere near the level they showed in the engine mechanicals so I’m glad that I picked up the Acustion PE set, as this helped add some nice detail in a couple of areas.
Overall the interior is giving me a lot of headaches – not least because interior is my least favourite part of the process and it is going to be very visible in an open top. On top of that, I want to try and do something nice because Bad and Ugly surely will!
The first thing I wanted to try was opening the air vents. There are 4 of them and they are big-time visible!
I considered drilling them out and making new ones as MPWR did in his F50 but, as the song goes, “you gotta know when to hold ‘em and know when to fold ‘em”
so I decided to try first to scribe away the plastic between the grills. If I f**ked up then I still had the other method in reserve although I don’t know what I would have done if I screwed hat up too!
My Hassegawa scribing tool, Try-tool scribers, miniature sanding sticks and lots of swear words and it got there.
Next up was the dashboard.
The Fujimi decals here are bloody awesome! – sharp, detailed and well registered and the Acustion set includes a great PE fascia – the only thing missing was glass….so I added it using clear plastic packaging.
The basic strategy was to make a “sandwich” of styrene backing, decal with dials, clear part and then PE facia.
First I transferred the basic shape to styrene.
Next was to
clean and prepare a piece of clear plastic and transfer the shape to this also.
The parts of the sandwich minus the decal
This is a test fit with decal and glass in place. This is actually hard to photograph well to get the true effect of the “glass”.
Completed dash with other PE parts attached.
and the detailed centre panel
The Fujimi seats are probably one of worst parts in the kit relatively speaking with big pin marks in the back and questionable accuracy.
Looking at reference pictures the seat itself seems to be "off" and the headrest is molded on. Changing the physical shape of the seat is something that Gio could do but not me so I decided to concentrate on detailing the headrests.
This was my reference picture:
As you can maybe see, not only are the headrests on metal rods but there is also clearly a kind of double back to the headrest which I felt was worth trying to replicate.
Here you can see the seat separated and primed. The second back was made by transferring a masking tape template to some sheet styrene, cutting it out and shaping it with warm fingers around a paintbrush handle (hi-tech or what?!
).
Here are the same parts painted in XF dersert yellow and glossed over with Microscale satin (Vallejo satin is better than this stuff INHO!). The little white rings are slices of drilled out styrene rod which will be sharpie penned black and used to simulate the plastic washers on seat and headrest attachment points.
Finished seats. Still need to be “washed” and if I can source appropriate hardware, I will add seatbelts.
The interior was flocked using white glue method. It was after cursing about this that I had the idea to use double sided tape instead. Too late for this model but I applied the MPWR 1.1.3.0 upgrade to
my flocking how-to to make some detailed floor mats.
Note that the color of the mats is slightly different to the floor? This is almost certainly to the difference in color of the backing material – worth noting if you ever think about flocking your models with this method.
Make sure that the floor plan and mat backing are similar in color (unless you are using contrasting color scheme).
Door panels. The Fujimi parts are pretty faithful replicas of the original. This was my reference picture.
I assumed however that the round disc above the speaker grill is a blanking panel for a manual winding access point and I tried to replicate by using sheet styrene and my belt-hole puncher to cut out an appropriate disc.
The panel was painted up, BMF applied and screw heads were made out of slices of thin solder and then detail painted with Humbrol Metalcote. BTW the massacre you can see at the bottom of the door panels comes from using too strong glue during test fitting grrrr! Fortunately, after reassembly this is not visible.
For and extra touch of detailing, I added door lock knobs. These actually “work” in as much that you can decide to have the “locked” down position or the “open” up position
Still to do: Detailing the steering wheel, gear lever, seatbelts, soft roof, pedals etc.
Thanks for looking and I’d appreciate and advice on painting/shading the PE parts on the centre console. Just apply a wash? Use enamels?
And BTW, I was too chicken to try and go for the 2-tone leather look
Stevenski