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Re: vtec-e
You definently need to know what you're doing to pull something like that off. If you're not comfortable with doing it, then you'll have to pay for someone else to. No offense, but from the questions you're asking in this thread, it'd be a good idea to pay someone else to do it for you.
1) A Dizzy is a slang term for a distributor
2) There are nuts and a few bolts (maybe studs?) all around the bottom of the oil pan. You need to take them all off and pry the oil pan off.
3) Most sensors are just clips. Push the tab in and pull both sides of the connector. The throttle cable is exactly how it sounds; a metal cable that goes from your gas pedal, through the firewall, over the intake manifold, and hooks to the throttle body.
4) TDC = Top Dead Center. Everything needs to be properly aligned so you can correctly time the block with the head.
5) I usually take a stretched out coat hanger, remove the spark plug from the #1 cylinder, and put in the hanger. As you turn the crank pully you'll be able to see the hanger go as far up as it can, this is TDC. But the #1 and #4 pistons will both go up at the same time.
6) "...rotate the crank, using the crank pulley bolt..." It's a bolt that goes through the crank pulley (either a 17 or 19mm bolt, I forget), this is what you use to turn the crank. Put the 17 or 19mm socket on the crank pulley bolt and turn it until you get to TDC.
Your best bet for a head would be the D16Z6 head (from the '92-'95 Si and EX models), as well as that ECU (P28). As long as it's a D-series head, it will work, whether it's USDM, JDM, or EDM. Before you try anything, if you decide to do it yourself, you NEED a service manual. If you don't want to buy one, there are tons of them online to download in .pdf form. It will show you all the coolant lines, connectors/sensors, vacume lines, how to unbolt parts (like the head, etc).
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