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Originally Posted by 92_prelude_si
I got mine about a week ago from HMO and my friend helped me install it (he did mostly everything). Yeah there are some things that are different like the line for the fuel rail is on the opposite side. The EGR is different and needs another kind of connection. The distributor has the inner coil thing so you have to use your old one. Also the intake manifold has two extra vaccum lines, one behind the IM and one on the right hand side. Let me see... Oh and it doens't have a way to screw the black box (with vaccum lines connected to it) that is connected to the bottom of the IM. I haven't driven it yet because my clutch won't disengage all the way so I can't shift out of neutral when the car is on but when off I can. I don't mean to steal this thread but was wondering if it could be the release bearing gone bad.
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Did the clutch work before the swap ? If so if could be something simple like a adjustment for the clutch, you could have a air bubble in the clutch line, your master or slave could be shot, you could have a shot pilot or throw out bearing.
Easy way to eliminate master/slave cylinder being shot is look for clutch fluid puddles under the car or extremely glossy wet areas in those areas.
Easy way to eliminate the air bubble is pull off your inspection plate for the transmission ( underside ) and look where the slave cylinder pushes its rod against the clutch fork ( or more commonly known as a pitchfork ) and see if it moves, if it does - Good to go.
If neither of these, i'd be looking at some new bearings
good luck man.
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And for you with the question about HP difference between J-spec and USDM -> You can usually on same vehicles just jspec or usdm version see roughly in the 20 - 30 HP difference range. Almost not enough to be worth it for the costs youd pay to get it.