Accurately diagnosing problems by someone describing noises, especially over the internet, is damned near impossible but, here we go.
Problem 1: Have you seen the "MIL" light come on? It indicates the cars diagnostic system has detected a fault. Go to Autozone or the like and they can connect a scanner to read any codes that may have been set.
It's free. Call first to make sure they can read a 94 Camry. Short of that, you can read the codes in your driveway. Read this:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8013ee16.jsp I'm betting it will point to the Inlet Airflow Meter valve, Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve, Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor or an O2 sensor. If this is all Greek I would find someone familiar with car maintenance and have them go over the subjects on the above link with you. Just about every system is covered to some extent. Better yet buy a Haynes or Chiltons maintenance manual for your car ($15-20). Your library probably has a copy.
Problem 2: Rotating noises are created by worn disc brake pads, wheel bearings, constant velocity (CV) joints, or drive belts. Which one?
> Brakes? Worn disc brake pads will make a squeal or chirping noise and if let go long enough, a metal on metal grinding noise. The previous is created by small tabs on the pads called "indicators" rubbing on the disc letting you know it's time to replace the pads. The squeal or chirp will get more intense as you apply the brakes. A metal on metal grinding noise that again gets more intense with brake pressure, indicates the brake pad material has worn away and the metal backer is grinding on the disc brake rotor. Ugly!
> Wheel bearings? Worn bearings make a grinding noise that
usually gets more intense in turns. The key indicator is the noise would normally come from one side of the car. If you can spin the wheel with it off the ground sometimes you can duplicate the noise. If they are worn bad enough you can detect excessive play by grabbing the tire fore and aft and wiggling it.
> CV joints? Both the left axle and the right axle have both an inner and an outer CV joint. They allow the axles to flex with suspension movement. When the outer cv joints are bad they make a clicking / clunk noise in turns.
Usually you hear the noise from one side of the car. Take your car to an empty parking lot and roll the windows down. Make slow turns in both directions. If you hear the clicking noise when turning left, the right outer CV joint is bad. Noise turning right, the left outer joint is bad. Why the opposite joint? Left turns shift the weight of the car to the right side stressing the right joint. Bad inner CV joints will make a clunk noise when accelerating or decelerating.
> Drive belts? Worn or loose belts create a squealing noise. A loose power steering belt can cause hard steering. Look for cracks and have them checked with a belt tension gauge.
Improve the lifespan? These are probably the 4 at the top of the list:
The #1 thing you should be doing is regularly checking and topping off all the fluids ie, oil, coolant, brake, transmission, power steering, and the battery water level. Your drivers manual will tell you how. I do it every weekend. Make it a habit.
> I'm betting your timing belt hasn't been changed in a while. They need to be replaced every 80,000 miles or so. If your timing belt breaks the car will not run. Costs around $300 to have it changed.
> Change the engine oil and filter every 3-5,000 miles.
> Change the transmission and differential fluid every 20,000 miles or every other year.
Your best bet would be to take your car to a non-dealer auto shop and have them look at it. Family run non-chain shops seem to work out the best. They might charge you for one hours time or $60-100 but, you'll have an idea of what needs to be done. Then it's decision time.