[i_rebel]

What rates are you using? I moved my 275 to the front and put 200 on the rear and the ride in my car is really improved - except upon the harshest bumps. I think the higher rate springs absorb heavy bumps better. I'm probably hitting the bump stops on the worst bumps now.

I'm running 340 (f), 250 (r) . . . not bad at all, I'm actually aiming for bumps and dips in the road . . . no ill effects. AGX's set to: 3(f), 6(r) . . .

You did not use enought duct tape. I used several layers. The threaded collar should barely fit over the duct tape when you are through.

yeah, I kinda figured . . . I refuse to take all that schitt apart for some extra duct tape though . . . at least not any time soon.

Very tight. The piston shaft cannot turn in the upper plate, so you should be able to tighten it down good.

That's funny . . . When I first installed the front end, I had compressed the springs first, and tightened the lock nuts all the way. I didn't need to tighten the lock nuts any more after installing them. only problem was that that made it extrememly difficult (chisel/hammer) for me to adjust the perch even after loosening the allen bolt(in the perch) all the way. What I did was I loosened the lock nuts at the top of the shaft, decompressing the spring, and then I was able to turn the adjustable perch without a problem. When I went back to tightn the lock nuts on the piston shaft I had to hold the shaft tops with vice grips in one hand and tighten the nuts with the other.

I hope your terminology is wrong. What you are actually describing not only won't work, but it scares me. I'll look at the instructions tonight and make sure I'm not using the wrong terminology.

You're a scaredy cat but yeah . . . as far as I can tell, we were describing the same thing in different terms.

My questions in appropriate terminology:

When installing the front strut/spring assembly . . . is it recommended or necessary for the spring to be compressed first?

If not, why not?

If so, should I just expect that every time I want to adjust the height in the front of the car, I must first loosen the piston lock nuts so that I can then be able to turn the adjustable perch?

Doesn't it seem as if there may be some extra suspension tuning to be had by adjusting the lock nuts at the top of the piston . . . inasmuch as by doing so, you can alternately compress or decompress the front springs?

It seems to me that . . . if I compress the springs all the way, and have the lock nuts locking at the end of the threads in the piston shaft, I make the springs tighter . . . no?