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Re: how do you count the knock on the engine?
Race gas isn't necessary unless you are heavily modded. The stock turbos wont be able to flow enough air to need such high octane.
However, keeping an eye on knock is one of the best things you can possibly do when you start tuning. On obd1 cars (91-93) it is really easy. All you need is a datalogger and a palm pilot and you can monitor it while you drive, and turn up the boost accordingly. They are in teh process of doing making similiar software for the hybrids (94-94) and I think as of now, you can do it on them too. OBD2 cars (96-99) are the ones you can't. Which sucks. So for those, other tuning options become necessary. Such as a combination of monitoring wideband o2 readings and the ecu's timing control.
It is hard to explain all the options and factors for tuning, as there is so much. The best way is to really just read as much as you can, and ask when you don't understand, so that you can figure out which direction you want to take.
The bottom line though, if you have a 91-93, one of the first things you shoudl buy is a datalogger and palm pilot because it is an invaluable resource. Until you are monitoring knock, or learn to tune, you really shouldn't go above 14psi. Some say 14.5, or 15, but 14 about as much as I'd suggest pushing it. This works out well though, because the stock turbos (9bs) really can't do much better. Going beyond isn't really necessary until you make fuel/turbo upgrades.
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96 3000gt vr4
-K&N FIPK
-Proboost mbc
-Cusco front + rear strut bars
-Greddy type-s
-ATR downpipe
-no cats
-15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly.
Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.
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