If I'm not mistaken this is the info u need..
I have the .bin file but not sure the process of completion.... I think it's all about the installation of the ZIFF socket to get it working correctly...
Taken off PGMFI written by: GimpyAccord
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I'm writing this for the other people here who arent too OBD0 literate like me... or are confused about how to make their ECU 1-wire VTEC compatible. I'm sure it will seem silly to the pros, but I figured this writeup would help some people.
My hatch had a PR3 in it, which ive determined is a big pile of shit... so I've been testing with an auto PR4.
Well, the other day the auto PR4 I was using to test with took a shit. I had a stack of manual PR4/PM6's but no hardware to convert any to PS9/auto spec. TurboEF9 told me Dave was originally testing the 1-wire stuff with the CEL output.
I looked on the wiki, and you guys had the AC clutch output listed as known, but not the EVAP purge canister (unless I'm blind). My 90 Si doesnt have AC anymore so I decided to use it for my VTEC... cuz im too cheap to go buy a PS9.
Step #1:
Anyway here are the following changed that I had to make to the NG48 rom:
The stock AC clutch code was FIGHTING me. Whenever the 1-wire code would turn on the relay, the ECU would get upset and turn it back off. Ad-infintium.. clickclicliclckcliclicklckc.. so I had to make these 2 changes:
1.) 2882h - 23
2.) 2888h - A3
What that does is replace the stock AC relay on/off code with the address line of the AT lockup solenoid haha. I'm sure there is a cleaner way but oh well. It works... i figured that wont bother anything since that hardware doesnt exist on the ECU anyway
3.) 7FF2 - 15
That just changes the address line for the 1-wire VTEC code from the AT lockup solenoid to the AC clutch relay output.
All other changed are made within TurboEdit (just enable one-wire VTEC like you normally would etc). I guess TurboEF9 doesnt have the address line box working yet, which is why you must do #3 in your hex editor manually.
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Step #2
Aha you say, but doesnt the AC clutch ground low? Yes it does, this is why you must then use a relay to 'reverse the polarity'. For those of you who didnt install stereos and alarms heres a diagram how:
As the diagram shows just pull +12v to 86/30 (I got my +12V from the switched pin A13). Then for your trigger wire cut pin B3 and hook that from the ECU to 85 on the relay. Lastly, hook 87 on the relay to the VTEC solenoid.
Anyway, this is working really well for me! Thanks to everyone who is working on the NG roms.... its saved me from having to convert to OBDI
Attached the the ROM I'm using. I have a B16A SiR-1 and this is by no means a tuned rom.. use at your own risk. All I did was hack out and mix the low/high cam maps of a PR3 into this ROM. That being said even that is wack because I'm pulling lots of timing/fuel in the idle area to get around a hunting idle condition I have (don't ask.. I don't wanna explain haha... im cheap lets put it that way).