Hey Nathan,
You stated " and the power im referring to is power at the ignition module when key is turned on "
Ok, that could be good news. But at this point we have dived a little too deep for the time being. We need to back up a few steps and take it from the top. There is three things you need to test for first, I'll list them in order for you. It does require a spark tester. If you don't have one, they cost about $15 at Advanced Auto Parts (
http://www.partsamerica.com ) and this is where I bought mine. It is made by Ampro and does a nice job.
1.) Connect your ignition system completely back up. Make sure to follow the directions included with the spark tester. Set the gap correctly on the spark tester. The spark tester gap is
NOT the same as your spark plug gap. It is much bigger! Also make sure the rest of your ignition system is completely connected back up! That means your spark plugs are gapped and installed, plug wires connected to the spark plugs, plug wires connected to the coils, coils connected to the iginition module. You get the picture. If this isn't done, the test will fail. You will test each and every plug wire. Just disconnect one of your plug wires from a spark plug at a time and
then connect that plug wire to the spark tester. Always ground your tester to the head of your engine! Crank your engine. Did a spark jump the gap? You may need to get a helper to watch for the spark.
Obviously do not touch the spark tester or any part of it when performing this test! You could get shocked and burned! Turn off the key and remove the key from the ignition switch before touching any part of the engine! Test each plug wire this way, remember to reconnect the plug wire you just tested back up to its spark plug. After you have tested each wire, see below.
2.) Three possibilities could of happened.
a.) There was no spark on one or two or three wires.
b.) There was no spark on all wires.
c.) There was spark on all wires.
3.) Tell me which statement is true. a.) or b.) or c.)
Sorry, I don't want to sound like I'm being short tempered with you. When I type directions, I try to type straight to the point so it doesn't sound confusing. I could tell you what a, b, and c test results mean, but that would take pages of typing. I am just trying to keep this as simple as possible.
Now back to the part when you connected your test light to the ignition module. It obviously glowed. You said you turned the key on, but did you crank the engine over while the test light was connected? If you did, what did the test light do?
d.) glowed steadily
e.) blinked
f.) didn't light up at all
tell me d.) or e.) or f.)
You stated " im not sure if i have injecter puls , how do you check that "?
We will get to that after I find out the answers to the above. Very basically you have to get another test light, one designed especially for testing injectors. You just disconnect one of the injector electrical connectors and attach it to the test light. Crank the engine over and watch the light too see if it blinks. This is the only test light I actually will use anymore. To answer your question about test lights being dim if voltage is low. Yes, some will be dim, others won't dim, they'll be just as bright to the human eye as if it had 12v. It all depends on what type you have. LED's are popular light sources anymore. Depending on their circuits, 5v will make the LED glow just as bright as 12v. It's always a better deal to use a volt meter, then you know exactly what the voltage is. Downside is that a good meter will set you back a few hundred bucks. Fluke is a very good manufacture of meters, very fast, data hold, bar graphs, etc. I am an electronics tech so luckily I have one. It may of spoiled me against test lights. Best of luck. Oh yeah, sometimes I don't get home to late, so posting back to you obviously will be late at times, as long as I don't fall asleep first!
Later
very basically