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Originally Posted by oljeeptek
I am a little confused to what you mean above. Is it the switch that is hard to move, or the lever?
The switch should never be hard tomove, and needs replacing if it is sticking. The rear locks work through the front switch (Master/drivers switch). It provides the ground path for the rear switches. The wires through the doors break too, but you can splice in a new section of wire easily enough. Don't put any solder joints inside the boot flex area or it will break shortly again.
If the lock lever i hard to move manually, you probably have lock actuator biniding internally. They usualy need replaceing but are fairly cheap, and GM actuators are the same. You may have to pull 2 screws to swap brackets.
There are also lock and unlock relays used on most models, but I rarely had to replace any.
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Hey OlJeepTek,
Thx 4 the reply. It's the Lever (Black plastic thing says "Lock" on it). A pass in the back uses it to lock/unlock their door. That's the thing that's hard to move.
So changing this lock actuator will make it easier to move and thus easier to lock/unlock from driver's master switch too? I ordered a several generic ones from Partsexpress.com. Hope they're strong enough to pull/push the lock.
I saw a mod on another site titled: "Fixing Slow or Broken Locks". Due to a voltage drop the rear doors (on older XJ's from age/resistance) won't work or inconsistently. It entails adding relays to get full 12v to the rear locks and at least 40 persons have tried this mod with great success.
Have you heard/tried maybe both? I may try it if changing the actuators don't do the trick.
Virtually everything inside my doors are riveted on. Don't recall seeing any screws or bolts could be wrong tho. I hope I don't have to drill out any rivets. lol
btw - When I opened the Driver's Door to investigate and lube everything there was no plastic moisture damn? Maybe they forgot to put one on at the factory? Would it cause any damage not to have it?
1. Another thing is the two rear pass doors require a good slam (especially the left pass door) for them to catch and shut. I greased up the latches and repeatedly slammed them (my neighbors must've thought I was nuts, lol) to work the grease in but still the same. Is this normal? The fronts close and latch much easier.
2. Looking at the Throttle Body from the front of the Jeep, you see the IAC on the Left (I think, is it the IAC stepper motor?) and TPS on the Right. The left side has TWO vacuum lines coming out of the TB, the lower one goes to the MAP. What is the one above that for and where is it supposed to go? Mine isn't hooked up. It looks as if the previous owner didn't have the correct grommet and put some Black RTV in the hole and then inserted the Vacuum Line that goes nowhere.
Thx, Phil
