WOOHOO!!! SHE'S UP AND RUNNING!!! Thank you to EVERYONE that helped with this, each suggestion put me a little closer to solving the problem. Here's what I was writing before I found the problem, which is at the end.
Bstrom-I just tried checking across the terminals (between the positive terminal and positive cable). 12.46 Volts. Had my wife try the headlights, then starting it. No change at all in voltage. There's no resistance between the connectors on the battery cable, or from the small wire that branches off of it. Same thing with the negative battery cable, no resistance. So both cables are good. I checked the wire from the starter to the alternator (2 wires merge into 1 connector on the starter end, has the fusigle links in it. No resistance there either.
Roby-It didn't look like there was any liquid there, but it was like very tightly packed flour or dust. When I went to unscrew the screw holding the cable to the battery, the wrench just slid right around and came off with all of the crevices full of the corroded metal. I have replaced the battery and the cable. The ground wire looks good, has no resistance in itself and no resistance to the screw holding it onto the starter case (ground).
Jeff-I made sure I put every cable on. Did it by putting different colored zipties through all the connector holes for a certain connection point. I even turned my hands jet black just by feeling every square inch of space I could find around the starter for about 2 feet, and got my little mirror out for the small spots.
SOLUTION: After doing all the troubleshooting above, I was sitting in the front seat, looking over the electrical diagrams and pulling out what few hairs I have left. I remembered that Bstrom mentioned that the only devices working were those not drawing much current. Although the Haynes electrical diagrams are VERY incomplete, I was able to trace 2 big devices to the fusebox situated almost on top of the battery. I used my multimeter to measure the voltage and got 12.4 volts for about 10 seconds, and then it would drop almost to 0. Hmmm... I got my little test light out (easier to use a yes/no device instead of a device with various degrees of yes) and checked voltage. I tested the cable going to the starter and detected voltage. I then tested the auxiliary battery post, which is where the small wire branching off of the positive cable goes to. No light. Just for giggles, I tested every part of the fusebox above the battery, which is "downstream" of the aux battery post.
I had to cut the original wire about halfway up due to the connection being VERY tight and not wanting to break the fusebox to unhook it. I had tried to splice the wires together, and ended up pulling them apart as I was taping them. They were making just enough contact that anything downstream of them that required as much or more power than my little test light wouldn't get the power, but I would still be able to detect the voltage as 12V on my multimeter since it's self-powered.
I took off all of the tape and the splicing material and used an alligator clip to hold the wires together while my wife tested the headlights. WE HAD LIGHT! I crossed my fingers and asked her to start the engine. BLAST OFF!!! I added about 4 inches of 12 gauge wire to ensure I didn't put pressure on my splices and tested after each splice. After using about 1/4 roll of electrical tape and 2 splicing tubes, the car now starts and EVERYTHING works.
Overall, I ended up replacing a BAD starter, a BAD battery, and a BAD positive battery cable. Overall cost about $250ish and 30ish hours of troubleshooting, tearing out hair, and finally fixing it.
Once again, THANK YOU to everyone that jumped in here and offered suggestions. You all helped me either narrow down the problem area, or trace it more easily. When my factory tech manual comes in, I look forward to helping as many of you as I can.
THANK YOU ALL!!!!!!!!!
Robert A. Rieke
[email protected]