You will do most of the work from the side. Remove right wheel and little plastic cover on inner wheel well, and you will be looking at the balancer. The sensor will come with instructions and a gap guage.
The balancer bolt holds the balancer in place, it is not a press fit like some of them. Removing the bolt is a PITA unless you have the right tools. I used a C/P ¾ in drive impact wrench that develops over 500 ft. lbs. of torque @ 150 psig. It was easy with that! You might want to consider renting one at your local tool rental store; otherwise you will have to do it manually. If you choose the manual method, you need a deep-well six point impact socket, pull bar and a cheater bar. (Twelve point thin wall sockets have been known to break or slip on the bolt) You will also need to have someone hold the flywheel with a large screwdriver wedged in the teeth to hold the crank from turning while you loosen the bolt. (You can also purchase or rent a flywheel holding tool). I have seen people remove the hood and stand on top of the engine with a six food cheater bar to break the bolt loose.
Once the bolt is removed, the balancer will slide off of the crank, (with a little pry bar) or small balancer puller. Be sure to reinstall the bolt to the correct torque specs and recheck the crank sensor gap when installed.
