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No, wrightz28, you are absolutely right about everything you said, i'm definitely not knocking you. I can definitely tell that the brakes need more pressure, but i was shocked because everyone said you would need a new master cylinder and prop. valve to get the rear brakes to work at all. I just didn't have the money at the time of the swap (still don't it was thursday) to get the other two items, and when i hopped in the car, it stops better than before, i even ran it up to 60 and stopped and it stops really good, don't have to put feet to the firewall anymore.
Tcfco, my only tip to you is to make sure you eat, and have atleast one person there to help you out. And soemthing that will make it easier to take out rusted bolts. I'm hurting right now because of the bolts. It's pretty much a plug and play deal. Take off the following in this order, it will make it much easier, because i didn't do it this way, which made it so f'ing hard. Driveshaft, torque arm, shocks, then control arms, and it should fall, of cousre watch the brake lines hooked to the car and you can still use the current junction from the rear on there. It's weird, the damn thing seemed complete interchangeable, i was amazed at how easier it was. The 2% left is trying ti find out how to hook up the ebrake. There are these little bracket that surround the rubber part and the cable, and i can't get them to fit, which why i need those mounts from a 4th gen car, becuase the 3rd gen are to small, and i'm home free.
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87 IROC - R.I.P, and she will never be forgotten 
90 RS - The beginning of a new era... I hope.
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