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The kits are produced in China, I'll get back to that.
I first noticed in (a Revell-Monogram kit) what you described when I built an Acura Integra.
(Seen it in many other models from several other manufacturers too.)
Even Testors enamel paint (airbrushed) ate at the plastic for the interior as if it was a hot lacquer based paint.
Anywhere the surface of the part was disturbed by trimming sprue or flash, or just sanding, created a very unstable area.
I noticed years ago, models I worked with that were produced in China, had a softer styrene than we are used to seeing.
It's a different formula, and as such, reacts to paints and cements differently.
The worst part is there is no uniformity from kit to kit.
I've had what seems to be the same plastic from the same manufacturer react differently at different times.
It's something we have to live with if we want new models produced.
The remedy is simple.
Take each model on it's own merits, just because you were able to do something before, does not mean it will work again, the compound may have changed.
Make sure the first couple coats of paint/primer are thin, light and somewhat dry.
Don't flood the paint on after you have built up a "barrier" coat either. Basically follow the guidelines of how to paint well.
You just can't get away with a few of the painting shortcuts like we used to.
Tamiya Acrylics do not seem to react with the plastic at all.
I have had pretty good luck with Tamiya TS sprays and Tamiya primer as a barrier on that type of plastic.
Once you get a nice finish, and it lasts for 24 hours, you're set.
If it crazes, let it dry.
You can either put a couple more thin coats of primer on and sand smooth with very fine wet paper, or if the crazing is light, just sand and repaint. I have had more uniform results by building up a thin primer barrier and wet sanding (if needed) before painting when the problem manifests itself. Good luck... - Mark
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