Quote:
|
Originally Posted by sr20de4evr
That will get you within maybe +/- 50% of the actual power output, that's about it. And you don't need to multiply by .7, that's to convert an AC voltage/current in the form of a sine wave into an rms voltage/current, the power coming from your battery isn't AC and it's not in the form of a sine wave. It's DC, so technically it's already "rms".
|
you cant measure RMS without knowing the true draw from your amps, your fuses are ridiculous benchmarks as they are only there to prevent fire. You also cannot measure against 14.4 volts because when any substantial load is placed on the electrical system most regulators will drop to and maintain 12.5 to minimize stress on the alternator.
To get a decently accurate measurement without any measuring equipment, take an ohms/ampre meter and measure the current draw while running a test tone(below 100hz for subs) and use 12.5 volts. If you have yellow/redtop or a real cap (1f @ 20v +/-10%) then you might get away with 13-14v then take 60-70% of that value to compensate for innefficiency.
You can easily find a subwoofer test tone on any p2p
*** CHEAP OHMS METERS WILL ONLY MEASURE 10-15 AMPS BEFORE CATCHING ON FIRE ***
... so ensure your ohms meter can channel the current. or get an amp meter
() I claim no responsibility for your death