I'll add my usuall calrifications, and some tips. I like these writeups.
The side tranny mount is a 17mm through bolt and nut, and 5 17mm nuts. The rear mount is a 14mm through bolt and nut, and 3 17mm bolts hold it to the tranny. I would pull it out right away also. IF the tranny moves around and pushes/pulls on the mount it can snap the speed sensor that comes up through it. The front mount is a 14mm through bolt and nut. I dont remove the mount from the crossmember, since you have to remove the crossmember anyway.
There is no need to disconnect the start wires. The battery is usually out when dong this job, and the start wire goes to the battery. So you can pull the starter and its wiring harness out together. There is a small black connector to the main harness for the solenoid power. The bolts are in fact 14mm head. All of the starter work can be done from above the car.
The crossmember and "gusset" have to be pulled at the same time. The gusset has 5 14mm bolts, one going through it and the crossmember. The crossmember has one more 14mm further back, and the 2 17mm bolts at the radiator support. Dont drop it on your head. I like to leave the through bolt (or a screw driver) in the front motor mount so I can undo all of those bolts without worrying about it falling.
There is also no need to remove any balljoints, and in fact I Remcomend leaving those alone. Too risky. Much easier to remove the 17mm through bolt and nut at the inner end of the Lower Laterall Link (straight lower control arm). That gives plenty of play to get the axle out. You dont even ahve to do the drivers side, since as you move the tranny away from the motor it will fall out, but doing both sides is certainly helpful for poeple that havent done this 100 times. I dont touch anything else on the suspension.
Take steves warning about the passenger side axle seal seriously. Its veyr easy to damage it. Its only 7 bucks, but I'm usually doing this at 2 in the morning when its too late to go pick one up.
I have an idea for a special tool that will pop the axle out effortlessly with no possible chance of ruining the seal. Someday I'll get around to making it. And I'll make a bunch and sell them cheap. SOmeday. The drivers side axle has no retention clip, so this isnt much of an issue on that side. The carrier bearing holds it in.
The slave bolts and shift cable bracket bolts are 12mm.
I stopped removing the downpipe a couple years ago. There is enough flex in the flex section to get the tcase bolts out. 5 17mms hold the tcase in. I dont drain the oil either. If you dont let the driveshaft come out of the tcase, all the fluid stays in. Shit, I must have dropped that tcase 15 times and never changed the fluid. I break shit too often to be replacing that much gear oil
That tcase is extremely heaving when you are laying on the ground cramped and beat to shit. Be careful with it.
That 12mm bolt on the firewall side of the motor/tranny is the one that porks most poeple. It goes in the wrong way, from the drivers side, as mentioned. The rest of the bolts will vary between different years. For a 6 bolt there will be 3 more bolts, all 14mm heads. For a 7 bolt there is another bolt. Some 2Gs had 17mm heads, others had 14mm. But they are all M10x1.25 fasteners regardless. One of them will go through the small clip that holds the heater pipe. Do yourself a favor and toss that piece of shit clip in the barrell right now. Otherwise it will come back to haunt you on reinstall. I saw 5 poeple struggling with a tranny install in the econlodge parking lot at the shootout for what seemed like an hour. I Was too busy drinking beerz to worry about it. But after a while it occured to me that they were having issues, and I knew immediately it was that clip for the heater pipe. They were kicking themselves in the ass after I suggested that. This guy dropped that tranny in 24 minutes too, so he's no amatuer. Dont let this happen to you, get rid of that clip.
When removing and installing the tranny be sure that the angle of the motor and tranny is still close to horizontal. Its tempting to let the tranny end hang down and let gravity do the work. But the front diff protrusion will interfere with the bulge in the K member and make your life hell. Keep the motor close to stock position. Just low enough to let the tranny mount studs clear the frame rail.
6 pressure plate bolts, 12mm. You are correct in loosening in stages to relieve the pressure evenly. Some flywheel bolts are 19mm, but again, same thread size and pitch. There is a square drive hole in the crank pulley bolt most of the time, otherwise use an appropriate socket, and have a friend use a breaker bar there to hold the motor. You dont want the motor to spin backwards if you can help it. Or put a pipe on the breaker bar and wedge it against the floor or the frame rail, depending on if you are installing or removing those bolts.
Clean all clutch parts with break cleaner before installing. New plates come with an oil coating to prevent rust. The flywheel will have oil on it from the machine work. Oil doesnt help the clutch hold the torque
Toruqe specs I use are 90 ft-lbs for the flywheel (use new bolts! only ~15 bucks), and 30 pounds for the pressure plate bolts.
Man, thats a lot of writing. None of this is to say steve was wrong on any points. There are different ways to do it. Now you have two methods. Use one, the other, or a combination of the two as you see fit. Other people have other ways of doing this as well. Enjoy