|
boost leaks
I thought i would bring up this issue to help out some of the twin turbo owners who have boost leaks. I have had problems with these in the past. The easiest way to determine whether you have one or not is where your vacuum gauge idles at after the engine has warmed up. If your vacuum reads around -20 when sitting still, and drops below -20 after letting off the accelerator while in motion, then you are good. If its idling any higher than -18, then odds are you have a leak.
Some of the most common places that i am aware of are on the rear turbo/rear IC pipe connection, the y-pipe to throttle body connection (on a stock y-pipe), and the idle screw (when the o-ring is shot).
I did some pressurizing tonight with my air compressor without any water/soap and noticed i had a leak where one of my intercooler pipes connected to my y-pipe. The other one was fine, but it had a new non OEM clamp on it, while the one leaking had an OEM clamp on it. My conclusion is that these clamps are weak. Although i checked my other OEM clamps and they held nicely, but this one didn't. So word of advice for finding a leak, check your clamps. My clamp was as tight as i could turn it, yet i felt air rushing out of the sides.
I will do more pressure testing, and hopefully with some water/soap. Hopefully i will be able to locate all my leaks, if i have anymore, and if i do, i will post them back up, so hopefully most of the common leaks will be covered.
Also, if you've discovered a leak in any other place other than what i have mentioned, feel free to post it up. Thanks
__________________
Daily Driver: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition
1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL-TT Automatic - Black
3.05 L Arias Forged Pistons, Pauter Forged Rods, DR Stage 3 heads, 3SX TD05 kit w/ E16G's, CX Racing FMIC, 550cc injectors, Walbro 255lph pump, + supporting mods
1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 - Black
Intake & Boost Controller so far
2006 Sea-Doo RXP Supercharged, Updraded SC, IC + supporting mods
|