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Old 01-26-2005, 10:45 AM   #6
kjewer1
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Re: Evo III 16G supporting mod questions

Here is my take on things, for what its worth.

EVO3 16g is an outstanding turbo.

The o2 housing isnt necessarily worth the money. It wont add power, doesnt do a whole lot for creep (see my website), and has a different angle at the downpipe connection requiring a RRE DP specific to that housing, or modification to your current DP. Some poeple get away with it if they have slotted holes in thier (aftermarket) DP, and it doesnt rub the tcase too bad. But it usually causes some interference. Just an FYI.

As much as I love my MAFt (since my car wouldnt run without it), I wouldnt recomend it on a 16g car. It wont hurt anything, but it wont add any power, and the 16g spools so fast any gains from reduced pre turbo restirction are minimal. The stock MAS is very good at what it does, and its the standard that those of us with DSMlink calibrate our MAFts to. Not very cost effective in your case.

Someone suggest DSMlink since you most likely have a EPROM ECU. I would HIGHLY suggest doing that as soon as possible. To run larger injectors you would otherwise need an AFC or similar, which would in turn limit you to the size injector you could run (since timing gets banjaxed, but see other threads for that info). If you do DSMlink now you get the most badass tuning setup for the money in my humble opinion, you can and should go right to FIC 950s, it is also a very powerful datalogger, and you will be able to run any turbo you want with all this and tune it safely. Its great for a daily driver since larger injectors will run like stock, etc. Various safety features that are very helpful for a daily driver that cant have a lot of down time because you didnt know you were knocking, for example, etc.

I would suggest DSMlink, 950s, and the EVO3 16g. Thats about 1400 or so. I believe that is what most poeple get for a return, its about what I got for many years. This way you can imediately take advantage of that 16g (with tons of room to spare), and have nothing holding you back, no regrets. I would suggest a AFPR as guitarXgeek suggested, but that can come later. With DSMlink you can see the effect, understand it, tune around it, and live with it until you can do the AFPR at a later date.

Speaking in AWD terms, since that is what I know, this will give you an easy 12 second setup at high boost and race gas, and low 13s to high 12s on pump gas. A FMIC will pretty much allow you to max out that turbo with low 12 to high 11 second potential on race gas and 25 psi, and 12s on pump gas. Make whatever adjustments necessary to guess at FWD numbers. Even if its a half second slower, it will still pull like the AWD with the above numbers on the street.

Thats how I would spend your money. I like spending money thats not mine, especially when DSMlink is an option
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Kevin Jewer
RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180
Mightymax - 10.7 at 125
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