[SublimeZ31]

ok no problem... ill type out everything i did as i did it, so anyone without a 1997 might be able to notice any discrepancies between the diff. years.
i started by pulling the trunk panels out on the right side where the antenna is. on my 97, i took out the one that covers the taillight first, then the one covering the antenna motor. attached to the motor/antenna assembly via a single screw is a piece where 2 wiring connectors clip in. each of the 2 contained 3 wires. one set of 3 leads to the motor, the other set leads up to the front of the car. unplug the one that goes up to the front of the car. sidenote: while i was doing all this, i noticed that just about every electrical connector snapped in, plus had 1 or several other snap-in pieces to secure it more... olds must really not want these to come apart! =) so just make sure you look at the connectors closely to make sure you get the auxilliary clips out before you pull on the main connector.
anyway... once you have the motor control connector out, pull out a voltmeter. on mine, i had a black for neg (obviously), i think a brown that was +12V whenever the car was on, then the middle (green) was showing 11V when the radio was on, and 0V when the radio was off. BINGO! thats what controls the motor - when the middle wire has power, the motor knows to put up the ant. when it has no power, the motor pulls it down. (i tested this by connecting up power to the motor and then touching 12V to the middle terminal, and sure enough the motor started raising the ant. also, note that the motor knows when to turn itself off, the radio doesnt turn the motor on for several seconds and then off, or anythign like that. the middle wire (called a remote line in electrical terms) just acts like a switch to tell the motor what to do, up or down. play with it if you dont understand what i mean.
anyway, i left that connector unplugged as i went to eat dinner and plan my strategy. i could leave the switch back at the motor for simple wiring... but how convenient would that be... if im going to do it, gotta do it the right way! i hate dash removal as i always seem to damage little snaps and tabs and so forth... but i decided that i would look up at the radio wiring anyway. i went to radio shack and bought the switch i mentioned above, but any SPST type switch will workif you dont like my style, and also a little baggie of connectors. the bag has male and female ends, and the shape that fit the switch prongs. i THINK i bought part number 64-3134, but im not totally sure. the style is called "Quick Disconnect" and its 3/16 prong size. i bought a bigger guage than i really needed for the radio wires, but the wire i ran to my switch was like 14 guage... overkill but its what i had around... so i bought connectors that would fit that guage of wire and i hoped they would work with the small radio wires (they did).
turns out getting at the radio is VERY easy. the panel to the right of the driver's feet comes out first. it has tabs that fit into the panel aft of it, so slide those out, and it also has a spring on the inside that pulls it tight to the panel to the left of the passenger feet. unclip that spring and set the panel aside. i took out the opposite panel as well (to the left of the passenger feet) which is attached in the same way, except the spring is permanently attached to this panel, no need to unclip. then i took off the black plastic that borders the front of the radio. be gentle w/ it, and it will come out. it has some clips... basically i just ran a tiny flathead around the edge, and started gently pulling on it. took maybe 10 min with some coaxing. no tabs broken =). once that was out, 3 screws hold in the radio. take those out, slide out the (huge) radio. unclip the connector in back (2 auxilliaries too i think). if you cant pull the radio out enough to get at the wiring, get behind that drivers-foot panel and try to get more room by pulling a connector off a metal tab... you'll know what i mean when you see it... its just on a metal tab to keep it in place. once you get the wires unplugged, look at the set going to the car. there are 3 greens. this is why i left the trunk connector unplugged. i clipped on test lead of my fluke meter to the remote line in the trunk then tossed my meter into the back seat through the pass-thru. then i sat in the drivers seat, put the meter on a continuity test and started touching green wires until i heard the beep (for anyone who isnt familiar w/ DVOM's, the continuity tester tests to see if there is a complete circuit between one test lead and another. in our case, it means that the leads are touching opposite ends of the same wire.) i THINK it ended up being a green that was between a brown and yellow? i cant remember for sure so thats why i suggest you test it. i clipped this wire, stripped the ends, and put a male connector on one end, a female on the other (this way i could just connect them together if i wanted it back to stock). then figure out where you want your switch. i put mine in the cig. lighter hole, because 1) i dont smoke, 2) i dont like people smoking in my car, and 3) if i make an exception for a hot lady, im sure she has a regular lighter anyway. if you choose the same, its easy to do. basically the lighter has 2 parts that screw together, one on each side of the surface its mounting on. kinda like a chicago screw, if you know what those are. hold the hole where the plug goes in still with one hand, and with the other hand reach around the back of where the panel we took out was and twist it and the two parts will loosen, and just unscrew it all the way. unplug the wire that connects to the back of the cig lighter and fight a place to secure it so it wont make noise. i kept my cig lighter, again in case i want to put it back to stock. the switch mounts in the same fashion. there's a nut you take off the switch, and then you put the switch through the hole from the front, and the nut screws on the back. the switch i bought actually leaves a little of the hole showing if you dont position it carefully, but i did it carefully so you cant tell the hole is slightly bigger than the switch once the nut is tightened down (and it doesnt move around in the hole, dont worry it looks good and nobody would guess its not factory if you do it right). anyway, once youve mounted YOUR switch in YOUR location, cut 2 lengths of wire to reach from the radio harness to the switch location. then put the quick disconnects on them... one wire will have 2 Female ends, one wire will have 1 male, 1 female. plug 2 females onto the switch, and then route the wires and plug the other ends into the radio harness ends we put on. plug the radio harness back in, the antenna motor harness back in, turn on the key, and test it all out =) it should work right away, let me know if you want/need any more info