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Agree about core plugs.
You don't need a torque wrench for the drain plugs - unreliable anyway because of extensions, contortions to get to drain plugs, and lack of room. If you use a 3/8 drive, you shouldn't have problems about overtightening. If you use a 1/2 drive, just be careful. I am cuz I tend to overtorque. If you're concerned, use Permatex Threadlocker when installing the bolts. I used Blue although it looks like Chevy used Red.
Sorry, I don't understand your modified flush procedure. If fluid drains clear, there's no anti-freeze. Don't know how you come up with 75/25 mix.
You also don't talk about using a radiator flush product. Maybe you don't need to, but I use it to make sure that the engine block, heater core, and radiator are as clean as possible.
A couple of stats on my 98. The coolant system capacity is 11.7 quarts. The radiator by itself only has a 3-4 quart capacity. After I had the system completely flushed and drained, I put in 6 quarts of anti-freeze and topped it off with 4 quarts of water - this was into the engine block and radiator only. I then filled the recovery tank with 50/50 mix. I don't think your engine is that different from mine.
Couple of hints. The drain plug on the right side was over the starter motor. I disconnected the battery because the terminals on the starter motor are uninsulated and one of the terminals always has 12 volts on it. I also put a protective wrap over the motor to try to keep water out as the water was draining. I drained the left side first and then the right side - less water that way draining out of right side. At first, I thought I needed to buy a flex-socket. But I finally found straight shots to the plugs from underneath - the left side was the harder. Finally, when you get the drain plugs out, there might be nothing coming out. You need to poke a screwdriver into the hole to remove the crud buildup.
Good luck.
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