The hose is less than the caliper. Do the check I said to help figure out what you need. Or do it all (caliper, slide hardware and hose) on both sides, and replace those rotors, because if they have been overheating that bad, they will warp or crack again after being machined.
For a wild guess, I's say $30 each for the calipers, $15 each for the hoses, and maybe $15-20 for the hardware kit for both sides. It will feel like new, and work well for a long time if you do it all. Make sure to put some Sil-Glide or something comparable on the caliper slides before reassembly, or they will sieze up again.
The thing about doing the hoses, if you haven't done one before, is you will really need a line wrench to do it right. You can get a 10-12mm combo line wrench at Autozone, it will save you from buggering up the fitting on the hose. There is a clip that keeps the hose firmly in place on the top, you must pry it out with a screwdriver. It is like a piece of flat spring steel, folded in half with the fold toward you. Put a small 'driver between the fold and the hose fitting and just pull, it will slide out. Loosen the top fitting BEFORE you pull that clip out, it will help keep the fitting from turning as you break it loose (and it will be tight!) Make sure you have a very good grip on both fittings, and when it breaks loose, it will snap suddenly, so watch your fingers! Make sure you can start the threads a few turns on the new one before you put a wrench to it, if you strip the threads on the metal line going to the hose, it's a whole new can of worms. This union and the one at the caliper must be very tight to have a good seal. Do not use any kind of sealer or joint tape. At the caliper end, there is just one bolt, pretty self-explainatory, just make sure you have a copper washer on both sides of the hose end. Sometimes the old washer will stick to the caliper, if there is double washers there, it will leak. Make sure you pull the old ones off. They may have to be knocked off with a tool, sometimes they are stuck to the caliper real good. Other times they just fall off when the hose comes off. The end of the hose is squared, make sure it is oriented to the recess in the caliper before tightening. Make absolutely sure you are putting the right hose on the right side, sometimes one will work on the wrong side, then the other won't work on the opposite side, and you have to take it apart and switch them. This can lead to some serious cussing. When I do brake work alone, I just take the bleeder screw out when I'm done, and take the cover off the master cylinder. As the fluid runs through to the caliper (sometimes it takes several minutes for fluid to start coming out of the bleeder-so be patient), You might have to pump the pedal once or twice to get the fluid moving, if it doesn't start to drain through after a few minutes. I watch the master carefully and keep it full of fluid. Once the fluid starts to run solid with no air at the bleeder, put the bleeders back in. Tap the caliper lightly with a light tool, this will make any air bubbles break away from the surfaces inside the caliper, and float up to the bleeder. Open it again once more, and close when the bubbles stop. Test it, and if it doesn't feel right, have someone help you force bleed by holding the pedal down while you crack the bleeders. Remember to pump the pedal many times to seat the pads before you try to drive it, or else it can take 4-6 strokes of the pedal before any braking occurs. That can be exciting@!!