OK
My 1994 XE manual trans had the common starting problem. I would turn the key and it made a clicking noise but wouldn't turn over. I'd turn the key a few times and then it would catch and run fine. I tested the battery and alternator, both fine. I cleaned all the corrosion off the battery and replaced the corroded negative terminal, but this didn't help. I was about to replace the starter, but then I realized I was too lazy to do that.
[A]So I replaced the interlock relay and it helped for a while but it started doing it again. that writeup is below.
[B.]so next i reread Mr Reverse's thread and rewired the relay directly to the battery (like he said from the beginning and i misunderstood) and that didn't help either.
[C]So finally i changed the ignition switch (key lock assembly in steering column) for a new one, and now it is PERFECT!!!!! HOORAY!!! that writeup is coming soon.
Disclaimers:
This fix is for manual trans.
Thanks to Mr Reverse at 4x4parts.com forum and his auto trans fix:
http://65.166.200.170/ubbthreads/sho...=&fpart=1&vc=1
If something goes wrong, you can't sue me.
Good luck.
[A] New Relay:
1
go to radio shack and get a 12 volt 30 amp automotive relay, 14 guage wire, 12 guage wire, wire connectors, wire cutter/stripper tool, and electrical tape.
splice about 6 inches of wire onto each connector on the relay. use the thin wire on the electromagnet terminals (85 and 86), the thick wire on the switch terminals (87 and 30).
2
locate the old interlock relay. it is a blue plastic box on the side of the engine compartment right behind the battery. mine was burned by acid from the battery. pull the relay down, off its mounting bracket. it helps to remove the battery or at least move it over so you have some room to work.
before you cut anything, you may want to test the new relay to make sure this works for you. who knows, it really could be your starter. to test it, pull the grey connectors out of the bottom of the relay. stick some wire in the connectors and connect them to the new relay. be sure to use thick wire on the switch side of the relay. start the pathy. if it starts, this is the fix for you. (EDIT:or maybe f-ing not. i did all this and still ended up changing the ignition switch)
cut the wires that run to the relay. be sure to leave enough wire sticking out of the wire harness so you can splice new wire onto it. then remove the mounting bracket.
3
splice the new relay in. thick wires to thick wires, thin wires to thin wires. it is just a magnet and a switch, so polarity does not matter.
4 tape it all up. secure it to the side of the engine compartment with a screw from the mounting bracket into one of the old holes. turn the key and the engine should start.
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[.B]:Connect interlock-RELAY directly to battery:
terms:
IGNITION Switch is where you turn the key by the steering wheel
RELAY-Switch is inside the Interlock-Relay, between terminals 87 and 30, that is closed to power the starter solenoid
Interlock-RELAY is the thing by the battery that i replaced above
(i later found out it is called the "interlock relay" - it makes sure the clutch is depressed, and twice sure the key is turned)
theory:
juice goes from (+) battery -> to ignition switch -> to interlock relay -> to starter
the wiring at the ignition switch is corroded or something
so get juice directly from the battery to the relay to the starter
and skip the ignition switch
and only use the ignition switch for activating the relay.
1. Figure out which wire is which on the relay.
since i had already replaced the relay, i don't know what number it originally was hooked to
so to find which wire was which
a)i put the car in
neutral!!!
b)put the key in the ignition to "on"
c)disconnected the thick relay wires (87 & 30)
d)touched the wires from the relay (one at a time) directly to the (+) battery terminal
e)when the starter cranked, i knew that wire went to the starter
f) label it!
2. bypass to battery.
hook that wire you just labeled back up to the interlock relay on # 87
(theory: ok, could go 87 or 30, just not on magnet 85,86)
b)hook up a thick wire directly between the battery
(i used 4 guage cuz i had it, i hear 10 guage is fine).
c)and the other end to interlock relay switch terminal 30.
d) the thick wire that you just replaced with the wire from the battery:
tape it up and tuck it in and tape it down.
e) finish beer
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[C] Replace Ignition SWITCH (the thing in the steering column you turn the key in)
theory:
there is some
wiring in the ignition switch on the key side
my theory:
maybe a kill switch so you can't just hammer a screwdriver in there and turn it with a wrench
the key has to fit well
but
the ignition switch is old and contacts are worn out
key is loose, contacts don't "contact"
so replacing just the "switch" part ($45) won't work - that only requires that the key turn
and i THINK that having it rekeyed won't help - it turns fine (rekey $100 at the locksmith)
so must replace the whole assembly - (over $100 for the new OE Beck Arnley assembly - insert cuss word here)
How To:
according to chilton, need to remove steering wheel
i did it with steering wheel on, and had no problems
1
disconnect neg battery wire
don't know why, chilton said so, anybody? no airbag, so, why?
2 remove steering column cover
a) GENTLY unscrew 6 screws under the cover
b) GENTLY catch bottom half as it falls
c) GENTLY remove top half
(i was kinda rough and broke a lot of places where the wood screws fit into the 15 year old brittle plastic
used a bunch of washers and bolts etc to put it back together
unless you might want to buy her, then nothing broke just kidding)
3
remove turn signal assembly
a) remove
2 screws on side of assembly
othewise you could end up drilling up the signal
wiring connector
(theoretically, i didn't of course)
4
remove all the wiring and tuck it out of the way
5
drill out the old ignition switch
two screws with heads sheared off must be drilled out
read somewhere you can use a 1/8" bit then a broken screw remover
i didn't have a remover, so i used a BIG bit and broke my back and it was ugly and messy
and turns out the screws were in there super loose - should have gone to buy the broken screw remover
6
put in new assembly and put it all back together
now it starts perfectly
first time - every time
and the key fits smooth and tight
(say it with me: smooth and tight)
no key jiggling
no praying
no sacrificing chickens
seriously
i was running out of chickens
next -
rekeying the door locks to use the same key
(i think i could have ordered the ignition switch to match my old key
but i didn't know then
and i can't return it after it is installed
so insert favorite cuss word here)
