Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Reed
sure they are bolt on, you bolt on the manifold, then you bolt on the turbo, then the downpipe, then the straight pipe (or a cat and muffler i guess).
you can basically guess at most of that stuff and be ok. jsut use common sense on what size turbine and compressor you need. of course its not going to be the best fit for the engine but when only have $3500 you cant call up and have one made. at first he can run on stock internals untill he gets money for pistons and rods. he should definately take it to a dyno when he gets it built.
|
you dont "call up and get one built" you decide of a turbo housing size then you decide on what turbine and impeller (compressor) will give you the boost you want with adquite flow for your engine...then you have to set up your fule system. if running more than 1.5atmospheres then you need to replace fule pump, regulator, rail, injectors and plumbing of the fule system. if running near 2.0 atmospheres you better have your bottom end and pistons replaced with ones made to hold that much pressure...just remember that if your run 14lbs of boost and you have an 8:1 compression that your head gasket and piston rings are trying to hold in more than 112psi upon TDC since the spark plugs fire 20-30 degrees before TDC is reached and the gasses have usually already begun to expand. if running over 2.0 atmospheres a lower compression ratio, retard your timing at least 2 degrees for ever 100HP added...so if you have a 140HP engine naturally asperated with a 9:1 compression ratio and spark advance is at 22 degrees...you run 15lbs of boost to stay on the safe side retard your timing to 24degrees and drop your compression to 8.5:1 if possible...you should see about a 100HP jump maybe a little bit more...anybody can bolt up a turbo and blow a head gasket and torch their pistons...it takes skill and proper tuneing to make the engin work well and last....