[Markgase2000]

The more thorough you get when doing a painting aplication the better the results , if your painting with enamels and laquers you can use the 320 gritt works great , but if you use the newer dupont type systems a finer gritt will be required due to the consistancy of the paint. (It shows through any defects unless aplied with orange peel affect)
All auto manufacturers use this orange peel efect to hide any flaws with the metal finish( slight warping , ripples small dents or dirt specs under the paint) the metal manufacturers use is way different than anything we used in the old days (has less memory , doesnt like to stretch or be heated as much as old metals did) this new material gets shaped once and thats it. Too bad cus with older cars/trucks all you needed was a dolie , body hammers , tinman hammers , body files , body chalk , and an oxy acetaline torch. They could repair anything without fillers or resins.
Nowadays the metal is repairable without removing the paint and repainting , its called paintless dent removal , thanks to more flexible durable paints.
Most important thing to remember , condensation is the enemy , it will get in any tiny places and ruin after time the hard work you done will go bad. I use hydrophoric acid (not spelled right)to remove rust from the peice and quickly nuetralize it with amonia then put body solvent on and dy that off then paint the piece with under coat to seal the peice. This process is fast , if you dont do all these steps after the acid within 10 minutes it will not work , if you do it fast enough the piece will last forever. Under coat and metal prep are very important. If your gonna paint farm equiptment use a sand blaster to remove paint and rust if its metal finish repair on a car or truck do it with sand paper wet or dry. Im sorry I cant go on , will post up later and finish this off. Unless it boring you. Ill put my steps in order later on.