This is what i have so far:
Question: How to perform a D16A1 swap into a first generation Civic/CRX
(D16A1 1.6 16V DOHC PGM-FI 1590 113hp@6250rpm 99tq@5500rpm '86-'89 Integra (USA))
Answer: (off site)
http://www.redpepperracing.com/gallery/SCC-ZC-Article
http://www.muller.net/sonny/crx/
http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/westech.html
http://home.wideopenwest.com/~tschmidt/
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/9855/87crx/
Question: How to swap '86-'89 Integra brake system into a '84-'87 Civic/CRX
Answer:
What you'll need is the brake system from an '86-'89 Integra. An '86-'89 Integra is mechanically the same as an '84-'87 civic and most parts will bolt right on.(note, this swap will only work on ‘84-’87 Civics and CRX’s, it will not work on ‘88-’91 Civic/CRX). You can even get cross drilled rotors for this system if you want, but for a street car, stock rotors will work best (more surface area).
The parts needed from '86-'89 Integra:
Master cylinder (don't bother with the booster, it won't fit on the Civic)
Proportioning valve
Front calipers
Front rotors
complete rear disc assembly
Rear brake hoses
E-brake cables
Rear caliper mounting bracket to rear axle bolts (4 per side)
(get the whole rear axle with a complete brake assembly if you can)
Since you will be putting a lot of effort into swapping these parts, I would recommend rebuilding them or at the very least, have your rotors turned.
Tools needed:
32mm socket
10mm tubing wrench
Breaker bar or pneumatic impact wrench
Torque wrench
The usual tools (sockets, open/box end wrenches etc.)
Repair manual (Civic)
Here's what you'll need to do:
Starting with the master cylinder.
You will need to do a little modification to the mounting flange in order to get it to fit. The round cylinder (barrel) on the back of the master cylinder mounting flange is about 1/4" too large in diameter to fit into the booster, so you will need to grind down the "barrel" a little (not difficult). You can then seal the master to the booster using RTV. Another option that I have heard of, is using the master cylinder from an '87 Prelude. Apparently this master will fit on the Civic booster without modification (I have not tried this yet, so I can't tell you if this really works or not, but as long as the Prelude booster has a 7/8" bore, in theory it should work).
Replace the Civic brake proportioning valve with the Integra unit.
Next, Jack up the entire body of the car SECURELY!!!!! Support the rear axle and remove the wheels.
The front brakes are really easy, just replace the Civic parts with the Integra parts.
The rear brakes are a little more involved, especially the passenger side (assuming you are in the U.S.). Before you get started removing parts, remove the bolts that hold the bottom of the rear struts in place, this way the torsion on the rear axle will not be fighting against you.
The rear drivers side:
Remove the old drum, hub, brake mounting plate, E-brake cable and brake hose from the Civic. What you will be left with is a spindle and four bolts. You will need to remove these bolts and replace them with the same bolts from the Integra. The reason for this is because the Integra caliper mounting bracket is much thicker than the Civic brake shoe plate.
Next dismantle the driver side brake set up from the Integra. Remove the caliper, rotor, hub, dust shield and caliper mounting bracket until all that you are left with is a spindle. Toss the Integra spindle and trailing arm in the trash pile since you will not be able to use them (the Integra trailing arms are shorter than the Civic arms).
Install the four bolts (mentioned earlier) from the Integra axle into the Civic axle, then install the, caliper mounting bracket, dust shield, hub, rotor, and caliper.
The rear passenger side:
Remove all parts from the Civic the same as the drivers side. The only difficult part is dismantling the Integra parts. To do this you will need to break apart the Integra carrier bearing. This is because the caliper mounting plate is mounted behind the bearing on the Integra (not so with the Civic).
Back to the Civic.
Remove the four bolts around the spindle. You will need to rotate the spindle in order to get them out, as you remove them you will bend the dust flange a little but don't worry about it just bend it back into shape with a flat screwdriver after you have installed the Integra bolts.
Next, install the Integra bolts, straighten the dust flange and assemble this side the same as the drivers side.
Torque down the spindle nuts and stake them.
Install the Integra rear brake hoses:
They are a little longer than the Civic hoses were So you will need to be a little creative when installing them. Mine ended up in sort of an "S" shape.
Install the Integra E-brake cables:
You will need to use the Civic mounting tabs, so carefully cut the rubber tabs off of the integra cables. These cables are also a little longer than the Civic cables, but you can still route them the same way. The only difference is that I ended up crossing them over underneath the car and installing the left cable to the right side of the E-brake handle and the right cable to the left side, just to take up a little excess length.
Next look around the car and make sure that everything is installed, tightened and bolted down (like the rear strut bolts and hub nut dust covers etc.).
Bleed the brakes.
Adjust the E-brake
Then install the wheels and take it for a test drive!
Note:
It is very important that you DO NOT mix the Civic and Integra brake parts. For example, don't swap the rear disc brakes onto your Civic but leave the stock Civic calipers on the front. Or, DO NOT swap all the disc brakes on to your Civic without swapping the Master cylinder and proportioning valve. This is because the amount of pressure needed to operate the Integra 4 wheel disc brake system is FAR MORE than the amount of pressure required to operate the stock Civic drum system. The Integra brake system was designed and balanced at the factory for safe operation, so don't mess with it unless you have a thorough understanding of fluid dynamics!
Two more notes from the author (
lxndr):
You will need to use 14" or larger wheels in order to clear the discs, and you will need to disconnect the passenger side trailing arm so that you can rotate the spindle.
This swap took me one weekend to complete. This is because I had no guidance at all (other than rumors on the internet), and it turned out that I needed a couple more parts from the junk yard so I had to go back the next day and pull them. Don't worry, if you get all of the parts on my list you'll have everything you need!
Question: How to lower an '84-'87 Civic/CRX (with stock motor and suspension):
Answer:
The front is really easy, you don't even need to jack up the car if you know where the adjustment nut is! If you only need about an inch, just loosen the height adjustment nut. Doing this brought the height of my '86 CRX from about 24" to 22 and 7/8". Before you take any measurements roll the car back and forth and bounce it to settle the suspension. Measure squarely through the center of the wheel to the lower edge of the wheel well. Make sure that the car is on a flat surface with properly inflated tires. This procedure took me about 20 mins.
I would not recommend going any lower than about an inch at the front without taking out the torsion springs. 1 and 1/8" was as far as I could go and still have enough threads left on the adjustment nut to feel safe.
Also, if you are planning to do a D16A1 motor swap, you can still find stiffer torsion springs (24mm or 27mm) or you can also swap in an '86-'89 Integra cross member with bigger springs (+ power steering).
To lower the car more than an inch at the front you will need to remove the torsion springs. To do this you will need to set the front of the car on jack stands and place a jack under the spindle of the side you are working on. Then remove the metal dust cap at the rear and the rubber cap from the front of the torsion springs and use a dot of paint to make a reference point on the torsion tube and spring. Remove the rear spring clip, then using a heavy hammer and a large heavy punch or heavy round rod, pound the torsion bars forward about 3/4" and remove the front spring clip. Then spray the salines with lubricant and pound the springs back until they fall out. you may need to adjust the height if the jack until you relieve some tension on the spring (lower is better).
Next you will need to grind one spline off of the rear of the torsion spring next to the spline key. Grind the spline to the right of the key on the passenger side and to the left of the key for the drivers side then lube up the splines and install them in the reverse order from which you took them out. You may need to adjust the height of the jack in order to get the splines to align. Make sure that they go in one spline off from their stock location (reference mark becomes helpful).
Tighten the height adjustment nut all the way! Once you get the car on the ground loosen the nut until you get the desired height.
You can grind 2 or 3 splines if you are truly insane!
No matter how far you lower your car, it is a good idea to have the front end aligned when you are done. If you need a little more camber you can elongate the strut mounting holes toward the inside of the car, and if you need a little more caster you can pull the crossmember forward.
You should also consider replacing your struts with something adjustable like Tokico Illuminas, especially if you are planning to go really low.
At the rear you can just cut the springs or use aftermarket springs. You won't even need a spring compressor to remove them. If you go with the cutting method, one coil will usually give you about 1' drop, but do some trial and error before you start cutting too much off your coils since you can't add the coils back on. I've also heard that you can use Civic wagon springs in the back for about 1' drop, but I have not verified this. I have been using Tokico progressive springs. Tokico says that these springs will lower your car between 1"-1.5", but they really only lower it about .5", so I just cut the springs with a cut off wheel until I got the desired ride height. You can also get progressive springs from Eibach and adjustable springs from Ground Control.
You will need to find an adjustable panhard bar if you go any lower than about 1"-1.5" at the rear. or you can cut and weld yours to the appropriate length.
If you need stiffer sway bars, you can find both front and rear bars on an '86-'89 Integra, or use the front sway bar from an '84-'87 Civic wagon 4x4.
Note:
You can heat the rear springs with a torch and just let the car drop but the car will handle poorly, I wouldn't recommend it!