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Well, I drive a Honda. We don't know the meaning of high boost...
Frankly, I think it is a better idea to spend money on anti-detonation measures and other things that keep your engine reliable than to buy black boxes and boost controllers to jump the psi's and lean the AFR without careful planning. Yes, you'll need to play around with boost to get power. But its better to underwork the car than to overwork it; there is an ideal threshold that we want to achieve for maximum power and maximum reliability. Unless it's not your daily driven car, of course.
After you get the intake exhaust mods out of the way, get a good side mounted intercooler. Not only will it up your horses by cooling more than your stock intercooler, it'll help your turbo out because there is less of a pressure drop so the turbo has to work less to reach its boost pressure. After you do this, run to the dyno and experiment with the best AFR and boost for your car. You'll need an accurate boost gauge and a boost controller to raise the stock boost. To mess with AFR, you'll need a fuel pressure regulator, a fuel gauge, and a fuel computer.
I suggest NGK copper plugs at about 0.032" gap. Thicker wires will be necessary when you reach 17-18psi. If you plan on setting it that high, well... take it to the dyno and see how your engine components are reacting to
Not all of us are made of money, and this was the cheapest way I could think of to up the horses without killing the engine.
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1993 Mazda Rx-7 Touring
Ricer Extraordinaire
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