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Originally Posted by nanswah
As to the timing chain, I had the timing marks facing each other/coming together in the middle. A friend that has been helping redid the sprockets to where the bottom one (crankshaft, I believe) is facing up and so is the top sprocket. I am not sure how they are supposed to line up, although there is a keyway to where both gears can only fit in one way. In my chiltons, it says to line up the timing marks b4 removing the gears, but if they are a tooth off, they will not line up.
How can you tell when the piston's valves are closed?
Is that when the first valve moves up and down, then the second valve moves up and down, and then they stay up while some other valves move? Because that is what my friend did when he lined up the timing marks on the timing gears.
Also, does it matter where your number 1 spark plug is if you follow the firing order and point the rotor to number 1 on the cap?
And, fuel is getting to the engine.
Also, the distributor has a keyway, where it can only go in 1 way, so in this case, is it possible to be 180 out?
I am so frustrated and confused because the chiltons is just not any help.
Thank you for your help.
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I got all of this info from the "Motor" manual:
The timing marks should be aligned as follows: Top gear, mark at the bottom. The bottom gear, mark at the top. This will be called the valve timing setting. Now install the chain before turning the engine.
Next, set the distributor as follows: (The easiest way in the long run is to remove the valve cover from the side where the NR 1 piston is). Tap the starter, and note the direction of rotation (if you don't know, or are not sure). Rotate the engine slowly in the direction of rotation (not with the starter) until the intake valve opens, then closes. Then continue turning slowly until the timing mark on the camshaft gear is on top.
Now you are ready to install the distributor. (If is is already installed, that is ok, you are just going to line it up with the NR1 piston.) To do this, first with a piece of chalk or tape, mark the location of the NR 1 wire connector on the distributor housing so you will know where the NR1 wire enters after you remove the cap. Then remove the cap. check to see if the rotor is pointing to the chalk or tape mark. If not, remove the hold down bolt and clamp from the distributor and slightly raise the distributor with one hand, while attempting to turn the rotor with the other hand. When you raise it (about one inch or less), you will be able to align the rotor pointer to the point you marked with tape. Then lower the distributor back into place, and recheck that the rotor is still pointed to the chalk or tape mark. The gears on the rotor base may be cut at an angle, so you may have to lead a little to get it to end up in the correct place (pointing to the chalk or tape mark). Now replace the cap and the hold down.
Now it should at least run roughly. These adjustments are 'close' but not perfect. You need to get a timing light on the engine to set it exactly (remember to remove and plug the vacuum hose from the distributor (if equipped) to eliminate any built in vacuum advance.
Let me know how it works out...