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Re: 98 Contour overheating with new t-stat & w-pump
No I can't tell you exactly how to bleed it. I work on so many different makes/models, makes it difficult to remember them all.
Very few of the newer models if any can be adequately bled by driving them. Patience I've found is the key. Basically, with the engine cool or cold, remove the radiator cap if it has one. Remove the cap from the reservoir if it does not. Fill the radiator and start the engine. Let it idle and keep a jug of coolant handy. Watch the radiator/coolant reservoir for bubbles floating to the top, while monitoring the temp gauge. As the gauge reaches the R/M in normal, the thermostat should be about ready to open. When the thermostat opens, the coolant level will drop rapidly and steam will usually escape out the filler neck. Add coolant slowly to allow air to escape as you're adding coolant. Make sure the heater/ac is off, and not in defrost mode, otherwise the cooling fan may operate when you don't want it to. If the cooling fan comes on prematurely (hoses are still cold), turn off the engine and allow a few minutes for systems to equalize and give the air a chance to escape. The coolant may overflow if air is trapped below the coolant level, so be cautious for not only the spills, but not to get burnt. Continue this process until, the top radiator hose is hot, indicating the thermostat is open, temperature gauge is slightly below halfway the gauge, and the radiator is full. With the engine running install the radiator cap and continue monitoring until the cooling fan cycles on and off twice. The gauge should not go higher than slightly above halfway. If you are filling the system at the reservoir, do not fill it above the FULL HOT line.
Air in the system limits the effectiveness of the cooling system to do its job the same as air in the brakes. The temperature gauge typically will take its information from the coolant temperature sensor or sending unit located in the head, the thermostat housing or intake manifold. Superheated air trapped at the temperature sending unit can easily cause the gauge reading to be super high even though the actual engine temperature is less than that necessary to open the thermostat.
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