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Re: Need new tranny.
89IROC--- Hope you get better soon, it's a bad time to be sick w/all the holidays coming up soon.
The good thing about the 4L60E and the 700R-4 is that the main clutch packs are directly behind the front pump. --You pull the pan, -remove the filter-, remove the lock-up solenoid (held in w/two 6mm bolts)-, unbolt and pry the pump out of the housing-, pop the band loose from the retaining pin and pull it out-, grab the input shaft and remove the whole forward/reverse/3rd gear housing assemblies. The other guts in the tranny are a couple of planitary gear sets, a one way sprag, and the lower reverse pack. You don't have to go any deeper to repair a damaged 3rd.
I have done many of these "quick fixes" with good sucess. If only clutches are burned, you can do it fairly easy -- if some gear set is shelled out then every little part needs to come out and be checked/flushed/cleaned.
I wouldn't recogmend a high-dollar shift kit. It might work ok, but I prefer shift kits from a company called Trans-Go. They have a kit that I use on 700s (part #SK700-JR) that are very inexpensive and work well. There is also a heavy-duty 3rd gear kit that works amazingly good too. The stock 3rd pack has something like 5 or 6 plates and this kit packs in 8 or 9, if I remember correctly. It gives an impressively crisp 2-3 shift.
I have done so many of these trannys, I have learned several tricks over the years that a book doesn't tell you.
When I install a shift kit into a Camaro or a 4X4 truck, I remove the springs from the 2nd and 3rd gear accumulators and stack large diameter washers under the accumulator pistons to take the slack of where the springs were.
The springs soften the shift (when it shifts to that gear, it is not only applying the clutches in that pack, but also compressing the spring in that accumulator). With no spring, it gives a firmer shift (you'll have to look in a rebuild book to see what I mean). I really don't modify the reverse and forward packs too much, you really don't want to chirp the tires when shifting into drive or reverse.
I drill out the pressure relief passage behind the front seal and install a new bushing. The bushing has to be Toc-Tited in place and there is another trick that I do to the bushing to keep it from rotating (if you need to know, I can explain it to you). Another important tip -- Use J-B weld to hold the front seal in, that way the cheezzy seal retainer clip can go into file #13 (trash can).
I haven't even come close to explain all there is to do on a 4L60, so if you need more, I'll be glad to shoot you some more info.
Hope it all works out,
---TEX---
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