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Originally Posted by SilverY2KCivic
Yup, I've heard of it too. Only a few cases I've heard of through friends, but it seems like it's more often than I had thought it might be. But like you said, it all depends one on the person's car and mods done to it, and also on the driving style of the driver. I don't go pushing my car around corners often, I'll drive some canyon roads once in a while on weekends, but during the week, I'm all daily driver, no time for extreme handling.  I'm sure the rest of my setup has a bit to do with things as well. Plus a couple months ago I also put on some new 2kg stiffer springs on my Tein coilovers all around. A bit more bouncy, but it's giving me the exact handling I've been hunting for at the auto-X events I participate in.
But yes, the thicker the bar, the more strain it puts on the subframe and the mounting points of the bar to it. If a 22mm will still rip through a kit, imagine what the Mugen 26mm bar can do!   I've seen what tearout looks like before, and it's definitely not a pretty sight. Quite expensive to repair also like you said. |
Yea, I can imagine what a Mugen 26mm bar could do! I imagine it wouldn't be pretty. I know the type-r subframe is stronger than the regular sub-frame by a decent amount. I suppose if someone tore the sub-frame and had the Type-R one properly welded on in it's place during the repairs, that 26mm Mugen might work then (why not add the beaks kit as well for insurence) without quite the major likelyhodd of a major tearout. That would for sure help eliminate worries about the 22mm and beaks kit. It'd be a lot harder to tear it out with that if you grafted on a Type-R sub-frame. But Again, why do it unless you've already had your sub-frame tear out, lol. Cuz it the regualr repair isn't cheap, I can imagine the horrific cost that would be, especially after the cost of importing the Type-R subframe.