First Time Modeler: TAMIYA Efini RX-7 R1 (1991)

This RX-7 is my first model - so there is alot of learning going on here. Hopefully my future models will be alot smoother. Although my model isn't complete I can already take some lessons from doing one model - given the biggest lesson is you just got make the model. I doesn't matter how much you read, its the experience that really teaches you.

I recently acquired the Aoshima (http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10094814) MINE'S BNR34 GT-R (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2218/2404283365_c110c6ec2a.jpg). Given I do not want to mess up that model, I figured I will try a model that is not that significant - a la Mazda RX-7.

So here are the models that I got: (I've decided to attach them because there are so many photos, makes the thread too long ;) )

TAMIYA RX-7: Click on thumbnails
38675386763867738678

Aoshima MINE'S BNR34 GT-R: Click on thumbnails
3867038671386723867338674

Okay, now time for some progress photos - okay I don't have any photos of my sanded model, but trust me you don't want to see my model sanded :shakehead . A tip for newcomers: Don't rush! I used a sand paper too rough (I believe 220 Grit) and it scratched up the back when I sanded it. I look back now and I should have puttied those scratches up! - I am pathetic for being too lazy ;) , at least I'm learning. The panel lines by the dorr have gone too - :mad: , those groves were really small despite deepening them too.The rest of the body I progressed from 600 grit 3M Auto sandpaper all the way to 1000 grit.

This is the first primer coat after I did a wetsand, the lumpiness is partly because of an uneven application and there is some water making the model look even more lumpy. on the back side if you look closely you will see some of the scratches I was talking about. And you can probably see my ghetto paint stand which works quite well. It is simply a plastic bottle with masking tape on it :iceslolan .
http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs503.snc3/26447_423431514691_510479691_5272232_1340423_n.jpg
http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs503.snc3/26447_423431529691_510479691_5272233_2578558_n.jpg

After the priming coat I am in progress of painting the body shell in yellow (TS-13) so it will look something like this. My body coat is looking like a disaster now though. For my first model - as I expected my paint coats are WAY too thick. I'm getting orange peel, runs and bubbles - oh boy! Polishing won't help much here - lesson learnt! The only way that I can really fix this problem is to CSC the model - being a student, I really have to budget myself. I would prefer to use my money building another model rather than restoring this 'tester' model
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/henning.jpg

Now onto the 13B-REW Rotary Engine - got to love wankels! :iceslolan
The Tamiya 1991 Efini RX-7 R1 is the only FD3S model kit to provide an engine to fit into the engine bay. Comparing it to a real RX-7 engine it isn't detailed too poorly, although I did have a few problems fitting the suspension in and the engine block into the bay. With the physical engine there were no problems. Hand painting the engine was rough, but with a little more practice I'm sure my hand will get steadier. You can easily tell I also cheaped out on the paints here! I bought TAMIYA Flat Aluminum (XF-56), Gun Metal (X-10), Chrome Silver |MISTAKE!| (X-11), Red (X-7), Smoke (X-19) and Lacquer Spray Semi-Gloss Black (TS-29) - as far as I can tell it looks decent. It does not look like a pro build, but it still bears some resemblance to a real 13B-REW powertrain.

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs483.snc3/26447_423431534691_510479691_5272234_945453_n.jpg

http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs503.snc3/26447_423431539691_510479691_5272235_2102896_n.jpg

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs483.ash1/26447_423431544691_510479691_5272236_2335022_n.jpg

http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs503.snc3/26447_423431579691_510479691_5272240_6043350_n.jpg pg

http://image.superstreetonline.com/f/9021992+w750+st0/130_0707_03_z+mazda_rx7+stock_13b_engine.jpg

The Tamiya chassis isn't too detailed but it suffices. I primed the undercarriage of the chassis. I laid a undercoat of Matt Black (TS-6) and then over with a Semi-Gloss Black (TS-29). I was very happy with the results as it yielded a result I expected. Tamiya didn't specify to paint the chassis, but I thought TS-29 would be too shiny, but matt black wouldn't feel right for a chassis unless I weathered it. This combo gives a nice 'showroom' look. The suspension was bit of a problem. When fitting it today it was very clumsy. When I applied the cement all the holes would fit except for one attachment to the body. If I didn't bend the plastic a bit one side of the tire would be raised by at least 1mm. It is a similar story for the linkups as you will need some force to get everything to fit precisely. Looking back I should have used white glue here - the cement ate away at some of the sprayed parts... :cwm27: . I don't have the smoothest look for the chassis, but what can you expect for a noob? I'll have to work on the fit and finish for gluing.

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs503.snc3/26447_423431584691_510479691_5272241_5776798_n.jpg

Rear:
http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs503.snc3/26447_423431589691_510479691_5272242_2804269_n.jpg
*** NOTE: I decide to give TAMIYA Chrome Silver (X-11) a shot despite what people said about how bad it was. when the paint dries it looks like a glossier version of Flat Aluminum (XF-56) - next time I'll get some Alclad for chrome

Front:
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs483.snc3/26447_423431594691_510479691_5272243_4998056_n.jpg

And the interior. On an interesting note, I was going to make the RX-7 RHD, but I noticed that the molding for the RHD dash was done quite poorly than the panel lines were extremely shallow, hence why I chose LHD over the domestic RHD.

I spray painted every part of the interior with Semi-Gloss Black to give black leather look - it works pretty well. I did some touch up on parts so it appears after market: Not everything looks like stock now!

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs483.snc3/26447_423431554691_510479691_5272238_3460958_n.jpg

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs503.snc3/26447_423431549691_510479691_5272237_1356084_n.jpg

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs503.snc3/26447_423431564691_510479691_5272239_2712743_n.jpg

The tamiya interior is done well, surprisingly accurate considering some of ther contemporary models aren't this good anymore - although the fit was only acceptable
http://www.japanesesportcars.com/galleries/data/media/81/rx-7_96_interior.jpg

I tried to give the racing wheel an aluminum center to mimick this type of racing wheel:
http://www.tcklineracing.com/MOMOCHAMPION.JPG

Sorry for making this thing a novel, but there it is. I guess if anyone new to car modelling like I am, the important thing is patience. My anxiousness and rushing have cost me the quality of my RX-7 :nono: . Well I'll continually improve by practicing :p . And read the stickies if you have the time, they help big time --- now if only I don't forget what they say so ofen :iceslolan :iceslolan :iceslolan

Welcome to AF! Good choice on the RX-7 for your first model. Being a full-detail kit, it will obviously take a bit more time and effort but it's a Tamiya so there shouldn't be too many problems. Don't worry about any mistakes made, my first model wasn't exactly a show winner either, but it taught me a lot about what to do and what not to do when building.

We're a friendly bunch here on AF, so don't hesitate to ask any questions!

welcome to AF, looking good so far

Now I have the body painted..currently it is still drying and a bit 'raw'. Tomorrow I will still need to sand the thicker bits and polish to remove as many imperfections as possible - also I should have managed dust better...

The doors and the bottom of the bumper still need to be painted black and the lights and wipers still need to be added.

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs503.snc3/26447_424719819691_510479691_5303433_7942127_n.jpg

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs503.snc3/26447_424719824691_510479691_5303434_2884232_n.jpg

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs483.snc3/26447_424719834691_510479691_5303435_457802_n.jpg

http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs483.snc3/26447_424719839691_510479691_5303436_4077968_n.jpg

We completely understand about the whole "first model" thing. we all start somewhere... lil tip for painting the body... try not to lay it so thick. do thinner but more layers. it'll lay with less runs and clumps. other than that, you are on your way to building nicer models

We completely understand about the whole "first model" thing. we all start somewhere... lil tip for painting the body... try not to lay it so thick. do thinner but more layers. it'll lay with less runs and clumps. other than that, you are on your way to building nicer models

yea, I realized that after the first coat - it was way too thick and I got the runs. Towards the last few coats I was laying smoother and thinner coats - so its just a matter of practice for me

it's all practice. best of luck to this build