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Spyder Halo Projector Lights need help adjusting light

03-15-2010, 12:24 AM
I bought the Spyder Halo Projector Lights for my accord and the light is shining down. If anyone know how to adjust the light to these Spyder Halo Projector Lights that would be great.

Jazzer The Cat
12-05-2011, 10:54 PM
WOW... this is an old post and no reply's?.... anyway,

I did a search for this specific question and came up with your post via Google :D. My wife has an '02 Civc and installed the following lights:

Spyder Projectors under E Auto name (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VJFSJI/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details)

If you look at the top LH corner of the following image, you can see the RH of two silver bolts protruding out the back of the lights (NOT the three to the RH side!):

The 3 of them around the high-beam, I have not yet tried to adjust, but only the two behind the projector lens (low-beams). I installed the lights and were too low, just as you described. I turned the one closesd to the outside of the car counter-clockwise and moved upward. I ended up turning probably 10 rotations, but VERY difficult location, once the lights are installed. There is a metal part right behind this bolt and need a short socket (forget the size) and an directly into a universal adapter to go upward with an 8" extension of a 1/4" socket.

I have to go to bed now, so will pick this up in the morning.

Jazzer :)

12-30-2011, 06:35 AM
Thanks Jazzer The Cat for this post. I'm having the same problem with Spyder Halo Projector Lights installed on my 99 Civic.

Jazzer The Cat
12-30-2011, 09:24 PM
Ha ha..... I am surprised this even got read :D

I had to get creative with some wiring, because I crossed a couple and shorted out the high-beam power supply on the passenger side :( I ended up using a second relay connected to the high-beams on the drivers side, to power BOTH sides. This was fine, but had to run an additional wire so that it would "re-power" the low-beams, because they go off when the high-beams are activated (it's a DOT thing!)

My wifes car now has full HID low-beams that CONTINUE to operate when the high-beams are lit. She has TONS of light and everything works great. If you want to know how I wired it, please just respond to this post and ask me :D I have this thread monitored to send me an e-mail when a reply is made.

Jazzer says happy new year to his pepes on AF's :)

02-14-2012, 01:07 PM
Hey Jazzer,
I am curious as to how did you set up the low beams to stay on when your high beams are activated...

Also below is a video on how to adjust your lights:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvwUR8RMfmw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvwUR8RMfmw)

Jazzer The Cat
02-15-2012, 08:24 AM
Thanks for the video link :D I figured that out at the turn of the new year, so all has been good since then :)

OK... so you want to know how to get tricky with the headlights, huh? You must start with two 12v 30 amp relay's. I hope you are familiar with the use of relay's, because this is a fairly complicated procedure and helps if you have worked with them prior.

Relay "A" is specifically for the HID ballasts, as the current needed to operate them, cannot be attained with the OEM 12v leads to the original headlights. Below is an image of the relay needed and you must have two of them, for this work:

1 ~ #85 is connected directly to the OEM 12v+ lead going to the original headlight bulb.

2 ~ #86 is connected to the chassis for a ground.

3 ~ #30 connects to the 12v+ wire of both HID ballasts for LOW-BEAM bulb (this is NOT a conventional location for this connection, but is what I did to make the stated goals here)

4 ~ #87 (normally "open" pole of relay) connects to a 30 amp fuse and directly to the 12v+ power supply of your battery. A second wire for relay "B" is needed here and will get back to this later.

5 ~ #87a (normally "closed" pole of relay) connects to a 12v+ supply lead from the second relay and will get back to it later.

With the above connections made, your HID ballasts will have enough power supply to operate 100% normally and you are good to go, per DOT regulations on headlight function. As it stands now, when you turn your headlights on, the #85 pole is energized. The relay now connects the #87 & #30 poles and you have 12v+ power to supply your HID ballast.

Now for the tricky part *rubs hands together like evil genious* :runaround:

If you look at the connector for the OEM headlights, you have 3 pins that plug into the headlight bulb. One is for low-beam, one is for high-beam and the third is a ground leg. Because of DOT regulations, when the high-beam wire is energized, the low-beam wire is de-energized and the crux of the issue at hand. We need the second relay to overcome this issue and where I had to get creative.

You need relay "B" to complete the master plan here and where we get creative on wiring. Wire the HIGH-BEAM relay, in a similar way as the LOW-BEAM one, but with the following differences, so READ CAREFULLY:

1 ~ #85 is connected directly to the OEM 12v+ lead going to the original high-beam bulb.

2 ~ #86 is connected to the chassis for a ground.

3 ~ #30 connects to that 30 amp fuse and directly to the 12v+ power supply of your battery (that second wire mentioned above).

4 ~ #87 (normally "open" pole of relay) has TWO wires connected to it. ONE wire goes to the high-beam bulb within each headlight and the second leg goes to the first relay and connects directly to the #30 pole... YES... to the #30 pole!

5 ~ #87a (normally "closed" pole of relay) HAS NO WIRING CONNECTIONS.

When wired this way, the LOW-BEAM HID's work fine and the high-beam relay "B" is un-effected and doing absolutely nothing. When the HIGH-BEAMS are activated, relay "A" loses power at #85 pole and returns to a non-energized state and the low-beams go off. This means relay "B" is NOW energized and you have plenty of power at the #87 pole. ONE of these wires goes to the HIGH-BEAM bulb, while the other wire goes to the #87a pole of relay "A". The LOW-BEAMs are re-energized so increadibly fast, you will NEVER notice they even went out :D

You now have BOTH low and high beams simultaneously and rollin' like The Kitty :smokin:

Before you begin this mod, be sure you COMPLETELY GET YOUR HEAD AROUND IT. It is easy to short-stuff out and blow fuses and such. Make sure you understand the wiring here, so you don't make a mistake and mess up your headlights!

Jazzer :)

03-04-2012, 11:30 AM
I found this very interesting, thanks! It will go on our Face Book page & Twitter :thumbsup:

03-04-2012, 08:10 PM
Better diagram of the relays and how you explained it. I did change the one that you mentioned goes to 30 on relay A from relay B because you never stated where 87a was going on the 2nd relay. This does the same results.


These relay diagrams are also a lot easier to understand IMO as you can see what goes on better than the other view you posted. If you haven't dealt with relays before, try and follow this along with looking at my diagram:

With the headlights turned off, Relay A is Normally closed(87A), which is still an open circuit because Relay B is also in Normally Closed.

With lowbeams turned on: Energizes Relay A, moving it to the Normally Opened position(87), providing high current 12v to the HID Ballasts for the low beams. Relay B stays in the normally closed position.

With High beams turned on: De-energizes Relay A moving it back to Normally Closed(87A). Energizes Relay B providing high current 12v to the high beams and 87A on Relay A, which keeps your low beams on as well.

The point of relays is to provide a way for a low current switch to provide high current. Sadly this wasn't realized in older cars which leads to burned up switched, much like my OE Headlight switch in my 91 civic. I never realized how simple relays really were until a few years ago, and if you were able to follow the diagram and either of our explanations, that is how any relay works.

Jazzer this was just an alternate explanation, I felt like trying to be helpful :)

Jazzer The Cat
03-06-2012, 10:20 AM
Thanks, that is exactly how to do it :D

Whenever working with wiring, my mind constantly takes ALL of the wires inside my head and just sees a mess :( With mechanical interaction of parts, I have no such issues. I just see a "jumble of wires" whenever I do this type of thing :) Your explanation is much better and you took the time to make an actual complete drawing. I was too lazy to do so and just hot-linked images off the web... lol

Glad it has been helpful to some, as I cannot believe the amount of time I had figuring it all out. It is really simple as wiring goes, just have that "wire confusion mess ball" thing goin' on that always gets in the way of things.

Jazzer :)

03-06-2012, 10:44 AM
thats what its all about....discussing & further educating :-)

thanks tony :cheers: excellent input!!

03-06-2012, 12:31 PM
Its easy to get overwhelmed when dealing with wiring, just have to sit down for a min, clear your head and take out everything else that your not dealing with, only the circuit you are messing with. If you can do that, wiring is simple.

Now don't come look at my car because the low beams are hooked up to a toggle switch because the factory switch melted on me, and I currently do not have high beams.

Jazzer The Cat
03-06-2012, 09:59 PM
Its easy to get overwhelmed when dealing with wiring, just have to sit down for a min, clear your head and take out everything else that your not dealing with, only the circuit you are messing with. If you can do that, wiring is simple... "

Ha haaaaa... you see, that IS my problem http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/images/smilies/roflmao.gif

I eventually figure it all out, but have lots of mental blocks that get in the way of what is in front of me and then ONLY to see what is in your image above :cheers:

Jazzer :)

12-28-2012, 05:33 PM
I recently installed SONAR projector headlights to my 03 Chevy Tahoe. My beams point down way to far but when I use the adjustment screws on the back of the lights, it creates unsightly gaps between the bottom of the light and my grill giving a full view of wiring. Is there a way to adjust my projectors upward without using the adjustment screws and creating these gaps?

Jazzer The Cat
12-29-2012, 02:33 PM
The adjustment screw will not move the entire headlight, only the lens within. If you can see gaps around the outside of the light fixture, sounds like it is either a poor fit for the opening or maybe possibly not the correct model/year light....? That second one is a longshot, but can you post a pic?

Jazzer... amazed this thread just keeps getting found via Google search :D

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