2000 blazer wont start when it rains/is damp out

Okay, so this has been an ongoing issue. My car will not start if it is damp out or has rained. Runs fine in hot or cold weather, even snow. I had the starter, distributor cap, spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, ignition coil, and transmission solenoid all replaced this week. The mechanic said that should have fixed the problem. Drove fine when I brought it home. Rained last night and car wont start this morning. HELP PLEASE!!!!!

Okay, so this has been an ongoing issue. My car will not start if it is damp out or has rained. Runs fine in hot or cold weather, even snow. I had the starter, distributor cap, spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, ignition coil, and transmission solenoid all replaced this week. The mechanic said that should have fixed the problem. Drove fine when I brought it home. Rained last night and car wont start this morning. HELP PLEASE!!!!!

Where did you get the distributor cap? Not auto zone I hope. Use genuine AC Delco for this part.

Okay, so this has been an ongoing issue. My car will not start if it is damp out or has rained. Runs fine in hot or cold weather, even snow. I had the starter, distributor cap, spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, ignition coil, and transmission solenoid all replaced this week. The mechanic said that should have fixed the problem. Drove fine when I brought it home. Rained last night and car wont start this morning. HELP PLEASE!!!!!

The person who said, "That SHOULD fix it...", is NOT a mechanic. Period.

Do you have a K&N air filter? Too much oil will foul the MAF element. High humidity will push it over the edge.

Why WERE all those parts replaced? Did they actually TEST bad??? Did you save them, because if the 'mechanic' replaced them, you should get your $$$ back.

Get Advance / Zone to scan for codes, and post back. They will be stored as History codes, even if not on.

parts are AC delco...scans say random misfire. no specific problems have been identified by the codes. trans solenoid and started tested bad. he said distributor cap was cracked and spark plugs need to be replaced. not sure about the air filter. i guess i'll have to find a new mechanic to take a look at that today.

parts are AC delco...scans say random misfire. no specific problems have been identified by the codes. trans solenoid and started tested bad. he said distributor cap was cracked and spark plugs need to be replaced. not sure about the air filter. i guess i'll have to find a new mechanic to take a look at that today.

If it only acts up when it rains it is drawing moisture some place or getting rained on some place.
Does the engine crank over good?
Good fuel pressure?
Good spark to all plugs

parts are AC delco...scans say random misfire. no specific problems have been identified by the codes. trans solenoid and started tested bad. he said distributor cap was cracked and spark plugs need to be replaced. not sure about the air filter. i guess i'll have to find a new mechanic to take a look at that today.


Get your fuel pressure like MT said.

Can you scan and post the receipt for the work, and include the shop number? I think you should go back, and ask to see the cracked distributor cap. If he cannot produce it, you should ask for ALL of your money back, or file a small claim.

Did he actually charge you for a diagnostic scan? Because he obviously did NOT do the diagnostic procedure.

Do it yourself'ers don't know any better than to buy parts blindly. A 'mechanic' who does this is a thief.

Incompetent people are hard enough to deal with. But thieves are over the line, and in my opinion, this person has stolen from you.

Fuel pressure should be your next test. Static, and dynamic tests. Nothing else for the moment...

i had the same problem.

in order to get it to start, i had to have somebody crank it, while i removed the intake snorkel and choked the throttle body by hand, simply by covering it. ultimate diagnosis was that carbon had built up on the butterfly valve, not allowing it to close all the way. on rainy days, moisture was building up in the engine. took the TB off and cleaned it, and haven't had the problem in over a year.

So I just got my car back from another mechanic. He said there's a problem in the fuel injection and there's 6 parts to it. He said it would take about 5 hours to fix, so $400 labor + $150/piece. He said fuel is collecting in there and the moisture is not allowing it to flow. I'm better off getting a new car!

So I just got my car back from another mechanic. He said there's a problem in the fuel injection and there's 6 parts to it. He said it would take about 5 hours to fix, so $400 labor + $150/piece. He said fuel is collecting in there and the moisture is not allowing it to flow. I'm better off getting a new car!

OR getting another repair shop.

Proper testing to find the problem.

Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.

So I just got my car back from another mechanic. He said there's a problem in the fuel injection and there's 6 parts to it. He said it would take about 5 hours to fix, so $400 labor + $150/piece. He said fuel is collecting in there and the moisture is not allowing it to flow. I'm better off getting a new car (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/#)!

i'm guessing he thinks the spider assembly and nozzles need to be replaced. it's not a tough job to remove and clean it, if you want to try something on your own.