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96 cherokee - won't crank


fordfan4life
03-10-2010, 02:49 PM
Ok, here goes. I'm down in FL this week visiting my cousin. She has a 96 Cherokee 4.0 auto 4x2 with 164,000 miles or so. About a year and a half ago, it started having overheating problems, where it would just shut down on her while she was driving around. After this, she just decided to park it (about a year ago).

Jump to the present. I get here and decide to try and diagnose the whole overheating problem. I go out to start it, and the battery's dead (I figured it would be). I tried to jump it with a couple of cheapo cables I had with me. After about 15 minutes connected to the running truck, I tried to start the Jeep, and the starter turned the engine over once or twice, but not nearly fast enough to get the jeep to fire. At that point I checked the battery (5-year-old autozone special) and figured that the cables I had didn't have a thick enough gauge to provide enough amps to crank the Jeep, and the expired battery was so old it probably wouldn't be able to provide the cranking amps needed even after a trickle charge either.

So I bagged the jumper cables and yanked one of the batteries out of my truck. Surely this would provide enough to get the Jeep running, at least for the moment. I popped it under the hood, hooked it up, cranked the key, and... nothing. Literally, NOTHING happened. No crank, no repeated clicking, not even ONE click. Nothing. I looked at the dome light while I had the key in the Start position, and it didn't even dim, which tells me that the starter isn't drawing any power.

So I figured it might be the starter solenoid on the side of the starter. I've heard that if it fails, sometimes you can just tap it while trying to crank, and that should be enough to get it going. No dice.

So, at the moment, I simply don't know what my next step should be. When I was under the hood, I saw a black box behind the battery labeled "Fuses/Relays", and inside were indeed fuses and relays, one of the relays being labeled "starter." Could this be the culprit?

I also put it into neutral while trying to crank, thinking that maybe the neutral safety switch was the problem. Again, nothing.

She also said that, at times when it was running, there would be rare instances where she would drive somewhere and shut the Jeep off, run inside, come back out, and it wouldn't crank. At those times, if you left it for maybe 10 minutes, it would then fire up just fine. Sadly, waiting didn't change our current symptoms.

I'm just leery about putting much more money into this vehicle. My cousin really didn't take care of it at all (it's up to, I think, 18,000 miles on the same oil right now). I just see the dollar signs going into this black hole, because we're paying just to get it running without addressing the overheating issue, which itself could be really expensive, too. I know these engines are really reliable, but if it's gonna cost over a grand to get it back on the road (which is way more than the vehicle is worth at the moment)... might just cut our losses.

Anyone have any suggestions, ideas, hints about the Jeep or the situation? I'd really appreciate any input/opinion on the topic.

wrightz28
03-11-2010, 11:06 AM
Hi there,

Actually tapping the starter is a test for a cracked/poorly connected brush inside the starter it's self.

I see you already tried in nuetral which is good, I'm currently chasing down a simliar issue with my "new" 98 that will always start neutral, but randomly in park.

Try taking a long blade screwdriver (insulated handle of course) and with the key in the "run" position, use the screwdriver to connect battery positive terminal to the ignition switch imput, smaller wire terminal just below it and see if it will fire that way. This would confirm your solenoid theory which is what I think I have on mine, a cracked solenoid cap allowing moisture in the solenoid switch.

New87jeeper
03-11-2010, 07:47 PM
If my jeep wasn't getting any power at all, I would start at the battery cables with an elec. tester and follow the cables to the starter and test it when someone attempts to start the car, so you have to jack the car up and block the tires and use the E-brake all to be safe. I would also test the fuse panel to see if that was getting any power to the different components inside the car. I would also check the power to the alternator if you get the car started, just to see if that is producing the proper at least 13 or hopfully near 14volts of power. There are also fuses in the engine compartment that can go out I would check any and all just to check them. You don't know sometimes what trickery has happened to your electrical systems sometimes. Do you have an oil leak at all, make sure that the starter and alternator arent super dirty or oily etc. Oil that gets too far into the electrical components can make them arc and malfunction, leading to failed components etc. The problem could also be in the with the ignition switch, but you could determine that if you test the started for power etc. Thats all I could suggest man. Good luck.

fredjacksonsan
03-12-2010, 08:38 AM
Agree with New87jeeper on the battery cables; on a 14 year old neglected vehicle they could be corroded on the inside, and allow enough voltage for the overhead light but not to start. (I've had a couple of vehicles with corrosion on the positive cable, up to 8" away from the battery and under the insulation)

The no-start issue sounds to me like a symptom of the Crankshaft Position Sensor. It will not start, then 10 minutes later, will work perfectly; also, you said she told you it just died on her...well, that's classic CPS also.

For the cooling issue, Cherokees have an overheating reputation when not maintained and I would bet money I don't have that the coolant is brown and maybe even crusty. A radiator replacement and system flush should do the trick (but did she give you any idea of how and when it overheats? In traffic, on the highway, any old time?)

These things run a long time with proper maintenance, but it seems your cousin hasn't done that. So:

New battery, check battery cables for corrosion; Oil change, CPS. I'd also replace plugs, cap and rotor as that will make a difference. Radiator. 2 gallons coolant and a flush n fill kit. And dropping the trans pan, replacing the filter there and refilling with new trans fluid will go a long way to keeping her on the road.

With my sisters, they pay for parts and I install them for beer. So far, sounds like we're still well under 5 or 600 dollars for parts, if you shop around a bit.

Saudade
03-12-2010, 10:00 AM
So just to verify, all other electrical systems operate OK with a good battery? Lights, radio, wipers, etc.? Is the fuel pump priming? If so, then a few more things.

Check all of your grounds especially the one on the pass side engine block and the one at the rear of the cyl head.

You can also jump the starter at the starter terminals. With the key OFF, use a jumper wire or even a screwdriver to bridge the small terminal on the starter solenoid to the large Positive battery terminal. Be careful not to short it to the block, starter case, the other large post or other ground. The starter should crank over. Of course, it will not start with key off. Also you'll need to lie under it to reach the terminals so be careful. If it doesn't, then double check the grounds and the starter mounting (it grounds through the block).

Assuming it does crank, ensure the Jeep is properly secured (in Park, E-Brake on, wheels chocked), repeat above with the key in RUN. Someone should be inside to control the throttle and brake. See if it starts up.

Post back your results and we'll look at the next steps.

JeepForever
07-09-2012, 10:43 AM
This morning my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee wouldn't start (lights & accessories are strong; no crank at all). I wiggled the steering wheel and tried again, and it started fine. When I got to work (where I am now stranded), I stopped the car and tried starting...Nothing. No crank at all. I'll try the starter test (haven't done that yet). If this DOES work, does that mean my ignition switch is bad? If it does NOT work, is it the starter or the switch? I replaced my starter about 2 months ago, so I'm looking for some ideas before I go shopping. Thank you in advance for your help.

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