4WD diagnosis; pics. Help.

Mine is broken. Let's see if I can break it more... '98 Jimmy. If I re-set the computer, it works perfect, one time, then goes into error mode, with NO SES light (unless it's broken. does it light up when you turn on the key?)

Problem: dash module lights blink, light up wrong, or blink then out.

Battery out...

When I unplugged this vac line, it was holding vacuum.

I'm listenin' here for tips...

Mine is broken. Let's see if I can break it more... '98 Jimmy. If I re-set the computer, it works perfect, one time, then goes into error mode, with NO SES light (unless it's broken. does it light up when you turn on the key?)

Problem: dash module lights blink, light up wrong, or blink then out.

Battery out...

When I unplugged this vac line, it was holding vacuum.

I'm listenin' here for tips...

What transfer case?
Have you checked for transfer case codes?

233 you have to ground pin 13 on diagnostic connector to read codes on transfer case shift button lights.

233 you have to ground pin 13 on diagnostic connector to read codes on transfer case shift button lights.

Had to break - dark cold (too much global warming).

Too late to check codes - battery's out, unless they store in CCM, not PCM? I didn't even know you could jump OBDII

I don't know what transfer case... '98 Jimmy v6 auto - does that tell?

edit: 233? NP233 TC?
Code lights lite up same as OBDI? 34 = flash-flash-flash pause flash-flash-flash-flash
Which ground pin? #4?, 5?

Does the vacuum actuator hold vacuum?
Does the actuator pull the cable when you apply vacuum to the actuator?

Does the vacuum actuator hold vacuum?
Does the actuator pull the cable when you apply vacuum to the actuator?

:confused:

I said in post 1 that the vacuum line (in the pic) had vacuum when I pulled it off. Is there a different vacuum line in the actuator system that you're asking about?

The cable was retracted about 3/4" from the vacuum in the line (in the pic). You can see it a little in the third pic how far it's drawn. Should it draw further than that? Or are you asking about another component in the system?

Had to break - dark cold (too much global warming).

Too late to check codes - battery's out, unless they store in CCM, not PCM? I didn't even know you could jump OBDII

I don't know what transfer case... '98 Jimmy v6 auto - does that tell?

edit: 233? NP233 TC?
Code lights lite up same as OBDI? 34 = flash-flash-flash pause flash-flash-flash-flash
Which ground pin? #4?, 5?

Transfer case id is on back of transfer case.
Pin ID
http://www.troublecodes.net/OBD2/

98 OBD11 uses 4 digit codes for engine and transmission.

Grounding pin 13 gives transfer case codes 1 threw 4 on transfer case push buttons.


If battery has been unpluged you will have to hook it back up and drive and the shift transfer case and then read codes.

What lights come on key on and then after you drive it and try to shift it?
What light are you getting 3 and 4 codes?

Alright - put the battery back, and set codes again.

Does it have to go closed loop to set tranny/TC codes?

Alright - put the battery back, and set codes again.

Does it have to go closed loop to set tranny/TC codes?

No .
It should set code when it does not shift into and out of 4W.

Watch the shift button lights and tell us what they are doing.
And check for and post back transfer case codes.

Battery back in, computer cleared, and function perfect one time, as it always does after computer is cleared, till I got out of the driveway, and shifted it again. Then failure mode again. No SES lights or anything.

Drive around the block til closed loop, and stick in the super-duper high-tech .10 cent scanner, sockets 4 and 13. The clip doesn't show up too good. Guess I need the EXTRA super-duper model.

No codes flashed in the shifter lights, just 1-2, repeated. This means the computer is reading as it should.

No codes. ???

Help?

1 threw 4 on transfer case push buttons.
What do you mean by this?

Code 1 is lose of ram stand by power.

Code 2 is encoder motor or encode motor to TCCM circuit fault.

Code 1 is lose of ram stand by power.

Code 2 is encoder motor or encode motor to TCCM circuit fault.

Do you have schematics? Or FSM diagnostic procedure?

Do you have schematics? Or FSM diagnostic procedure?
Sorry.
Most of my repair info is copy righted.
And can not be posted online.
For repair flow charts and wiring diagrams.
A factory repair manual or.
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html

Public libraries also have care repair info and most are online.

Sorry.
Most of my repair info is copy righted.
And can not be posted online.
For repair flow charts and wiring diagrams.
A factory repair manual or.
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html

Public libraries also have care repair info and most are online.

Copyrighted. That means you can't SELL the info. You CAN give it away, like I do here (http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=5237&forum=1&post_id=49963#forumpost49963). Same as the music and videos that you download and don't re-sell, but share.

No problem... Here's some stuff posted elsewhere online Rockland Standard Gear INC. (http://www.rsgear.com/articles/articles.asp) No fear @ rsgear :smooch: I'll refer as I go along...

Public libraries have squat. Chilton's, Hayne's, Clymer's. Stuff that should have a round hollow binder, and hang in the 'library'. http://centralmadisonliving.files.wordpress.com/2009/02/big-toilet-paper.jpg

Tear a page, read, wipe, flush, repeat. Crinkle if you're tender in the hindparts http://s-seriesforum.com/forum/images/smilies/moon.gif .

Forum rules will not let me post coptrighted stuff.
Done had my rear end chewed one time.
But
That Rochland link has good repair info.
Let us know how it goes.

What's this?

We're gonna' open the center console to get a little better look, maybe better access...

Anybody been here? Don't be scared to help out a little. And if any of you clowns is biddin' on that Blazer FSM eBay, BACK OFF! (please).

How does the shifter handle come out?

That's not a staple...

I prefer the quiet kind of cash too. Can't complain tho', looks like I'm eatin' tonight :lol:

Not much access there. :runaround:

Not lookin' good, without tech diagnostic procedure.

Does the T/C case need to come down to access the controller and harness input? Looks like front driveshaft removal isn't gonna' help too much, except pullin' the case...

Does anybody have the factory service manual, and you're not scared to share info PM me please...

1. If equipped, remove the transfer case shield.
2. Remove the transfer case wiring harness connectors from the encoder motor.
3. Remove the bolts that secure the encoder motor to the transfer case.

http://www.rsgear.com/articles/articles.asp

RS Gear. Good link. Did I post that yesterday?

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=38550&d=1267914507


Thanks OMaster... I think I gotta' get the factory spec diagnostic info before we go further...

1. If equipped, remove the transfer case shield.
2. Remove the transfer case wiring harness connectors from the encoder motor.
3. Remove the bolts that secure the encoder motor to the transfer case.
__________________

You did post it yesterday.
Very good link.
Look threw it it gives all test and test procedures and information on it.

A word of caution do not test the encoder motor off of transfer case.
If you do you can over center it and mess it up.

Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

Look threw it it gives all test and test procedures and information on it.


I read 7 of those tech articles. This is one of the first things I read:


To start, you will need access to the factory wiring and diagnostic trees and code charts.

But perhaps a little spoon-feeding is in order? I'm from Missouri - the Show Me state...


edit:
"...all test and test procedures..." ?
I'm not sure why you think that, but I re-read 7, and 2 more, and 'all test and test procedures' is NOT in those articles. There's very LITTLE test info in those articles. Besides the quote above, "You WILL need factory tech info...", I also saw these:

I read 7 of those tech articles. This is one of the first things I read:



But perhaps a little spoon-feeding is in order? I'm from Missouri - the Show Me state...


edit:
"...all test and test procedures..." ?
I'm not sure why you think that, but I re-read 7, and 2 more, and 'all test and test procedures' is NOT in those articles. There's very LITTLE test info in those articles. Besides the quote above, "You WILL need factory tech info...", I also saw these:

Just like I told you to start with.
You need some good repair info.
A factory repair manual or the all data online sub will have all of the info.

http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html


But first you need to test for codes and the clear codes and find what code comes back.

In prior post you said something about code 1 threw 4 and the codes 1 and 2.

If just code 1-2 come back after code clear then turn ign ooff and on ten times and if code 1 clear and only code 2 left.
Run the code 2 flow chart.

As said before my repair info is copyrighted and I cannot copy or post it.
So pease do not ask for it.



But the flow chart for code reads like this.
Check all circuits/wiring between TCCM and encoder motor.

Looks like standard gear posted wiring circuits.
So that should not be a problem for you even if you do not have repair info.

If all wiring and circuits are OK then replace encoder motor.

Letgood Luck us know how it goes.

Book of knowledge is ON THE WAY!!!

............ http://i22.piczo.com/view/3/n/3/h/a/9/b/l/5/7/q/1/img/t239682301_1564_7.gif

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=38568&d=1268193856

Those are the GM dealer issue shop manuals for 98 S & T series only. They are the real deal and you won't regret the $30 spent. They explain in great detail, EVERYTHING about the vehicle.

Those are the GM dealer issue shop manuals for 98 S & T series only. They are the real deal and you won't regret the $30 spent. They explain in great detail, EVERYTHING about the vehicle.

That's what I use on the vette tunin'. Right after I got mine, another went down for $24. Made me mad!!!!

They take a TON of reading to find your way around too. Definitely not for the faint of heart. Connector types, harness locations, control module pinouts, etc., etc., etc.

Easy to understand why the masses prefer to do the Plug n Pray diagnostics - change a part, and pray for a fix. a k a Fully Automatic Assault Wallet / Select Fire Repair Technique!

Feelin' like a little kid before Christmas 'bout now YUP!