03 Taurus starting problem

Hey all.... First post here...been stealing the great info on here for a while!
I searched the best I knew how, but seems like I need my own post...any ideas would be great. 03 3.0L Taurus runs fine but every few weeks cranks and you have to give it a lot of throttle to start, and then it blows fuel smoke as if flooded. I read on here a lot about various issues (fuel pres.,plugs,IAC, etc.) but didn't find posts about erratic starting problems in WEEKS?
Anyway, any other info I will provide, just let me know...Thanks...:confused:

Are there any common conditions when the issues occur, such as only after the car sits overnight, temp is below x degrees, etc? Have you checked the coolant level to make sure the car isn't drinking coolant?

-Rod

Yes Rod (and thanks for the reply BTW) car seems to sit overnight...thought an injector might be leaking down or something, but too inconsistent. NOT leaking any coolant, but heater has the teped syndrome (won't blow hot till temp is about halfway), but TB plate is clean-EGR seems OK-no leaks in air system-air filter decent-etc.,....didn't really want to start the "Taurus replace everything procedure" but might have to......thanks......

I'd suggest monitoring the coolant temperature sensor, Intake Air Temp (IAT) which is probably part of the MAF Sensor in your car, and to make sure you don't have an over-pressure condition, check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail when it won't start without opening the throttle.

-Rod

Rod...thanks for the help....in order if you please....
1.How do I "monitor" the CTS?
2. Do you recommend a used MAF or can it B serviced?
3. What is a high fuel pressure spec, and will a cheap gauge work or do I need a good one?
4. can you identify a electrical component attached to the throttle housing?
I'm not sure if that is IAC...does that come into play?
I am a 25 yr. body tech....anything with body I know well, but you mechanical techs need a 12 step program!!......thanks again!.......:runaround:

Rod...thanks for the help....in order if you please....
1.How do I "monitor" the CTS?
2. Do you recommend a used MAF or can it B serviced?
3. What is a high fuel pressure spec, and will a cheap gauge work or do I need a good one?
4. can you identify a electrical component attached to the throttle housing?
I'm not sure if that is IAC...does that come into play?
I am a 25 yr. body tech....anything with body I know well, but you mechanical techs need a 12 step program!!......thanks again!.......:runaround:

1. The easy way is with a scan tool and datastream mode. The less easy way is with a DVOM and making measurements of the CTS at a few different engine temps. A caution is Fords typically use one sending unit for the instrumentation and a sensor for the PCM, so the PCM could be getting a drastically different temp reading than the guage indicates.

2. You could start by cleaning the MAF very carefully with MAF sensor cleaner or other electronic parts cleaner. I have yet to use one that attacked the MAF sensor plastic housing.

3. The inexpensive fuel pressure guages are probably good enough. I don't have the service manual for the 2003 but could assume it's similar to the 2002 spec which I have access to at home (currently at work). It's probably something like 45-60 psi KOER and KOEO.

4. The Idle Air Control (IAC) and the throttle position sensor (TPS) would both be attached at the throttle body. Some Fords have electronic throttle bodies in 2003, but I don't think the Taurus is one of them. Can you tell if the throttle body is cable actuated or not? The IAC will have a pill-bottle sized cylinder with probably 2 wires coming out of it. The TPS will be attached to one end of the throttle plate shaft and will have three wires connected to it. The IAC does come in to play when starting the engine and to retain the correct idle speed under varying engine loads, but should not explain why you are getting what sounds like excessive fuel out the exhaust.

I'm not a tech, just a hobbyist, so I haven't been through a 12-step program for cars or otherwise. ;) I am also an auto body and paint hobbyist. I think I have the painting down (even did paint work on my tri-coat Moutaineer with impressive results), but still lack a lot of skill on the shaping and preparation side.

So is your username indicative of an R/C car hobby, or something different? One of my other hobbies is R/C car racing (1/18th scale and 1/16 scale indoors, 1/8 scale brushless buggy and modified Slash class outdoors).

-Rod

Rod;
Great post man!.......helps a ton.....I called in a marker and got a complete fuel rail and intake setup for parts!....the cables on my Taurus are mechanical. There are 2 (two) components attached on or near the TB housing as you said.I was thinking of swapping them just because....??
I'm also going to try to flush the coolant which I'm sure has not been done.
And check fuel pressure and probably replace CTS as I had NO idea what you were talking about there!!(I'm a bodyman!)...as far as my name...rc are my initials, but I'm a big team losi addict and now get to run them with my 14 yr. old!!....great (expensive) hobby....fun though....thanks and hope to talk more....i'll update U.....:)

Just checked the 2002 Factory Service manual:
Engine running fuel pressure - 350-380 kPa (50-56 psi)

Key on, engine off fuel pressure - 310-380 kPa (45-56 psi)

-Rod

Rod;
Thanks for the specs....Fuel is within range....problem still happening....cranks won't start unless I floor it......sidebar....Thermostat not opening at all....let vehicle get to "halfway" on temp gauge....should it open?
removed coolant bottle and cleaned it...looked like nothing ever circulated through it ever!.....so I will put new T-stat in it tomorrow and update...oh..
...also cleaned MAF gingerly and did not touch it & let it air dry B4 re-assembly....anyway.....thanks again.....:shakehead

With the fuel pressure gauge attached, how quickly does the fuel pressure bleed off after turning the key off? Maybe you have a fuel injector that is not closing, but that should only cause that cylinder to flood.... This also would be more prone to being an issue after the car sat only a short while, not overnight. I suppose one other consideration may be to see if there is any correlation to where your fuel was purchased. Is this something that has been a problem for long term, or only with the most recent fuel fill up?

Yeah, we're probably back to an Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) -related issue. Did the radiator cooling fans come on when the temp gauge was half way up? Have you ever heard the fans come on? Are you confident the cooling system is full? I guess that will be something to confirm after replacing the thermostat. What leads you to believe the coolant has not been circulating in the recovery tank?

-Rod

Rod;
Good to hear from you....haven't been on and just saw your last post!
Well, almost a year later, and this car runs great, but still cranks hard in the morning and throttle opened just a smidge---car starts. Now that you mention it, I NEVER HEARD FANS COME ON!! - changed t-stat - heater got better - but no fans!! Can't believe I didn't pop this engine!! Anyway, just turned 100K so probably gonna take off the intake and rail, and noid the injectors, replace CTS (never did), IAC, and tune up. Anything else lemmeno.
thanks.....:screwy: