Advice please

Ok, so I didnt get as much back for my financial aid as I expected, I was going to pay a shop to rebuild my engine for me, and port it, and put it all back together. But with the little amount of money I got, I wont have enough to pay for the labor and parts. I have plenty though to pay for parts, and a hoist and stand. What i'm getting at is, I spent 2 years getting a degree in auto engineering, and im FAIRLY confident that I could rebuild the engine myself. I rebuilt engines in class, but never one by myself with no help from either a class mate or instructor. I've come a long way since that class and know my way around an engine a little more than I did then. Im wondering, if you guys think that I'd be up to it so long as I follow either a build thread or a manual? I mean I can take things apart according to manuals and get them back together with relative ease. Is there anything that could pose a potential problem with this that I might not be able to handle, or is it decently easy to do? Remember, it's my first time doing it alone lol. And i'm sure if I get really stumped I can ask you guys for help...I was thinking I could even do a build thread myself and take photos of the progress and maybe everyone could offer imput...

:eek7:

I too have never done a rebuild but whenever I see someone ask a question like this the answer is usually to just do as much research as possible and follow a manual like a haynes or chiltons. I can't wait to rebuild a 4G63. And definitely do a project thread, I'm interested in seeing lots of pics.

Its really not that hard dude. I rebuilt the motor in mine and its still running strong. Was the first motor I have ever rebuilt. Just take your time and triple check everything. You will be paying someone to do the machine work so really all you have to do it assemble it.

Well, heres a few things that worry me lol.

1)Do I need to remove the trans and engine all at once? And then remove the trans from the block?

2)What machine work will I need to have done?

3)Based on what happened(oil leak, engine ran low on oil and started knocking) what do I need to look for? Do I need to replace ALL the bearings?

4)Clean up- I can't remember exactly the process, but will I need to clean the block when its all torn down? what about the internals?

Reading thru my haynes, these are the only things that stand out that I don't know for sure on...I appreciate it guys!

I prefer a Chilton's over a haynes but other guys on here my suggest another manual I don't know about. Chilton's manuals seem to give more detail and more pictures.

You can pull the block with out taking out the tranny. I always leave the tranny in my car when i pull the motor because I dont want to remove the axles and tranny fluid. If you ran it out of oil you spun bearings on the crank. Take it to a machine shop and he will turn it, then just use undersized bearings and you will be fine there. I would also take the block to him and get him to check the cylinder bore. You may just be able to hone it and you will be fine but depending on the wear he may have to bore it out some which would require larger pistons so wait to order those. Also have him clean the block and maybe clean the head surface.

Then you will probably want to rebuild the head will your in there. I just pulled the valves out of my head and bought new ones. Gave them to the machine shop and he regrinded the valve seals and valves accordingly. You may want to check out my build thread as alot of this info is in there.

Here, now you don't even have to buy a chiltons manual

http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/Index.aspx

I priced full machine work for a small block chevy I was planning on building a few months ago. I think it was around 300-350. That was including putting the rods on the pistons.

Ok Ill check out your build thread silver, but, All I have to go by in person is my haynes...I mean it can be done with this right?

The first step calls for relieving the a/c system, by taking it to someone to do this....is this nec.?

If I get the crank turned, how do I know which size bearings to use on it? Do I have to buy different sizes and try them each or how do I do this?

Removal without the trans....would mean that I just unbolt the housing from the motor and move it over out of the way of the engine?

Can I use an oem throw out bearing with an aftermarket clutch setup? Im thinking this might help with the noisy tink tink tinking i have coming from the new clutch...

Do I need to replace the oil pump with a new one while im int here?

Thanks guys

Dont remove the ac or power steering. Just unbolt it and move it out the way. Unbolt the tranny and separate both, it will take some work to remove to get the motor out but when u do put the tranny mount back in to support the tranny when moving the car around. It will keep it off the ground and keep your axles in line.

I just ordered bearings from the machine shop since he knew exactly which ones i needed. Make sure to plasti gage the bearings when you do assemble the motor tho. Research that in the book.

You need to replace oil pump, water pump, all of the timing belt components which include idler pulleys, tensioner.

I think my machine work cost 200 for the block and 45 for the head.

Everything I needed to know, thank you so much man. "whew"

Ok, so, bought an engine hoist and stand today, almost broke my back moving the f*cker lol. Now when I pull the engine, i'll need to take it completely apart, head also, and take the block, crank, pistons, head, and valves to the shop? Anything else?

Also, I just got to the step where I need to relive the fuel system pressure, which calls for disconnecting the wires from the pump in the back seat, and running the engine until it cuts off. This isnt possible for me obviously...is there an alternative means?

If the car hasn't been running the fuel pressure has leaked down by now. Dont need to do this

Worst case scenario, when you disconnect the line from the rail, or pull the rail from the engine, small amount of fuel will run out. There are alot of things in the manual you can disregard when tearing the car down.

Ok, gotcha.

I did an engine rebuild in school too, I would feel confident about doing one again, especially with as much resources at my disposal, forums, books, videos etc. Im rebuilding the engine for the CSU race team and ive definitely never done an R6 motor before. Triple check everything for sure, even if it takes you triple the amount of time. Remember every single build after this will take you less and less time and you will get more and more educated. I dont know if the 420a motor has balance shafts but I would ditch those too while you have the engine out. Good luck!

Thanks, does anyone know about that? Do we have balance shafts?

420a does not have balance shafts, so no worries on that.

My first rebuilt motor was my 420a too. It's a little intimidating but as long as you read and research, it's all good. Mine only has ~200 miles on it so far, but the thing is beastly.

Machine shops cost for me was block ~$420 (bore, polish crank, decked, hole filled) and head was about $650, but that included a valve job, deck, and porting and polishing plus intake manifold port/polish. If you spend more than that on machine work, you're getting ripped off haha.

As Silvr said, replace all the timing components. I would personally use an OEM TOB. Both aftermarket clutched/TOBs I've had in the car make a rattle when they're cold. The aftermarket ones are metal and they vibrate. They don't supply any more hold that the OEM does, so no need for it. Nearly all clutch packages I've seen comes with a TOB, but I would still go to teh dealer and get OEM. Next time I pull the motor/trans, switching mine out.

Maybe thats whats making that damn noise!

back on topic

Dave, do I need to take the trans out to replace the TOB? or can it be done with the trans sitting there still in the car with the motor out?

As for the machine shop, at the least what do I need to do? And also, I can bore. 0.020 over without having to change my current piston setup correct?

Trans can stay in. The TOB sits on the input shaft up against the pressure plate. When you take the motor out, you'll see the TOB on the clutch fork just chillin there.

Assuming that your current pistons are standard bore, .020 bore will need new pistons.

Thank you. I take it advance doesn't carry oem TOB's do they?

OEM "syle" But not OEM brand. Go to chrysler.

Will do. I ran into some confusion trying to purchase all the timing components I will need to replace at advance, Couldnt figure out what I would need and wouldnt need. Can someone fill me in on the complete list?

I got the complete gasket set, and the water pump. Have to go somehwere else for the oil pump.

Now I need a timing belt...and what else exactly?

I didn't realize this stuff would cost an arm and a leg...guess im not gonna splurge on a big brake kit...

Timing is a very important component. You don't go with cheap parts on that.

-Timing Belt
-Water Pump
-Oil Pump
-2 Tensoner pulleys
-1 Tensoner

Got it. Thanks