99 z24 wont stay running

ok heres the deal i have a 99 z24 2.4l 4speed auto. battery has been in and out and finally bit the dust. got a new battery for it, and it wouldnt stay running. then it wouldnt start at all. i pulled it home with our blazer, got it home . i figured it had something to do with the theft system. the theft light would stay on. eventually it went off and it started and had it running for about 2 mins. then all of a sudden it just died. no spit no sputter just complete loss of power! just like i turned the key off. ive had electrical problems in the past with this car, and unfortunatly no codes due to the battery being disconected. i did notice when the theft light is on, (key on not running) the check engine light is off i can here something intermittenly getting power and the check engine light flickers when this is happening. when the light stays on, the theft light goes out and it will start but immediatly stall. it seems to me like a loose wire somewhere just dont know where i should look. the battery was used from interstate. could something with the battery be messed up thats causing a short somewhere? heres a list of things that have been replaced in the past:
new computer, used engine, new alternator, new starter, new plugs,wires,coilpacks, new cam sensor, anything else i should be looking at if the theft system is causing this is there a rest procedure? PLEASE HELP!!!! having one vehicle is really hard:runaround:

well not the battery put the battery from my truck in the car and same thing itll turn over and tries to fire but immediatly stalls is this the security system or yet another wiring issue on my hands?

My guess (ouch...) is it's a security issue. The fact that it will fire up while cranking.

The Passlock ignition tumblers are a real weak spot on your car. It uses a permanent magnet placed along side the lock tumbler. When the key's inserted a resistance value is sent (white wire) to the instrument cluster computer (IPC). If this returned value does not match its programmed value, the IPC will disable the PCM from letting the engine run.

There's quite a few work arounds for this problem on the net. Reason is because GM charges a few bucks too many for a new tumbler.

Try starting the car with your spare key. If this does't work, you can try restarting while "playing" with the key. As the tumbler wears, the clearance between the magnet gets larger, wiggling it can momantarily restore the signal to the IPC.

I should also let you know (if you can get it running) that the cheapest easiest fix is to CUT the white wire from the tumbler while the car's running. That will permanently disable the Passlock system. Now any key that turns the tumbler will start the car, although the security light will stay on.

My guess (ouch...) is it's a security issue. The fact that it will fire up while cranking.

The Passlock ignition tumblers are a real weak spot on your car. It uses a permanent magnet placed along side the lock tumbler. When the key's inserted a resistance value is sent (white wire) to the instrument cluster computer (IPC). If this returned value does not match its programmed value, the IPC will disable the PCM from letting the engine run.

There's quite a few work arounds for this problem on the net. Reason is because GM charges a few bucks too many for a new tumbler.

Try starting the car with your spare key. If this does't work, you can try restarting while "playing" with the key. As the tumbler wears, the clearance between the magnet gets larger, wiggling it can momantarily restore the signal to the IPC.

I should also let you know (if you can get it running) that the cheapest easiest fix is to CUT the white wire from the tumbler while the car's running. That will permanently disable the Passlock system. Now any key that turns the tumbler will start the car, although the security light will stay on.


thanks for the info im trying the passlock reset procedure now leaving the key on for 15 mins then trying to start it ill try to wiggle the key as well ill post pack with any negative or positive results

well so far im lead to believe its not the security system i think its an electrical issue when i turn the key on the check engine light flickers real quick once and goes out possibly a ground issue? is there a main body ground somewhere? the only main ground i see is the block ground from the battery to the starter wich obiously bolts to the block where else should i look? please help the weekend is going to be over soon and we really need to get her runnin again and of course we got a blizzard and im tryin to work on it in our back yard in the snowbank

well so far im lead to believe its not the security system i think its an electrical issue when i turn the key on the check engine light flickers real quick once and goes out possibly a ground issue? is there a main body ground somewhere? the only main ground i see is the block ground from the battery to the starter wich obiously bolts to the block where else should i look? please help the weekend is going to be over soon and we really need to get her runnin again and of course we got a blizzard and im tryin to work on it in our back yard in the snowbank


ok update tried wiggleing key no change took cylander and actual ignition switch out put back in no change!! cleaned all grounds and positve cables including in the fuse box still no change im stumped

ok so ive checked both fuse boxes for corrosion and loose connections so far everything looks in order im still not geting any power to ignition all fuses are good conections are clean i still have the flickering then immediate going out check engine light and i have no power to the fuel pump relay any ideas?

well heres my next step im not paying $300 or a new tumbler at the dealer and would prefer not to get one from a junk yard my next question is can this problem be caused by a bad ignition control module ????