Rust starting, how can I fix for cheap?
akboss
02-24-2010, 03:21 PM
Hey all,
My white 2003 Mazda Protege5 is starting to rust, and I am pissed. I realize it happens to all cars, and 7 years is pretty decent, but it is a sign that she isn't a young pup anymore. My intention is to keep this car on the road for another 5 years - it runs great and is mechanically sound, but this rusting issue is going to kill her. Now as much as I'd love to keep the car looking factory-finish, I don't have enough dough to go out and get a paint job. I want to 1) stop the car from rusting in major areas, 2) prevent future rust in those areas, and 3) have some sort of paint (doesn't have to be exact) to cover up the repaired rusty spots.
So far it has started in small areas along the plastic strip that runs mid-way between the beltline and the rocker panels on the rear passenger door, the front quarter panel where the bumper meets sheetmetal, and almost all the wheel arches (mostly inside). Anybody have some cheap tricks I can use to get it to look at least a little bit better without taking it to a body shop and getting soaked?
Much appreciated.
A.
My white 2003 Mazda Protege5 is starting to rust, and I am pissed. I realize it happens to all cars, and 7 years is pretty decent, but it is a sign that she isn't a young pup anymore. My intention is to keep this car on the road for another 5 years - it runs great and is mechanically sound, but this rusting issue is going to kill her. Now as much as I'd love to keep the car looking factory-finish, I don't have enough dough to go out and get a paint job. I want to 1) stop the car from rusting in major areas, 2) prevent future rust in those areas, and 3) have some sort of paint (doesn't have to be exact) to cover up the repaired rusty spots.
So far it has started in small areas along the plastic strip that runs mid-way between the beltline and the rocker panels on the rear passenger door, the front quarter panel where the bumper meets sheetmetal, and almost all the wheel arches (mostly inside). Anybody have some cheap tricks I can use to get it to look at least a little bit better without taking it to a body shop and getting soaked?
Much appreciated.
A.
Oldengineer
02-24-2010, 11:46 PM
I had some luck on older Hondas slowing the rust down pretty good. I'd clean the spot out with a Dremel tool and a tiny wire wheel. Then I'd paint it with Extend rust convertor, and, let it dry for a couple of days. Finally I'd top coat it with paint that matched the car.
Regards:
Oldengineer
Regards:
Oldengineer
akboss
02-25-2010, 08:38 AM
I had some luck on older Hondas slowing the rust down pretty good. I'd clean the spot out with a Dremel tool and a tiny wire wheel. Then I'd paint it with Extend rust convertor, and, let it dry for a couple of days. Finally I'd top coat it with paint that matched the car.
Regards:
Oldengineer
I don't have a lot of tools (grinders, etc.) but I do have a Dremmel, and the spots are pretty small right now...that sounds like something I could do. Do you have any recommendations at the point where I finish grinding down the paint/rust, how do I prepare the surface for paint? You said extended rust converter, that's something I've never heard of. Is there like an automotive primer that I should be using, or a rust-inhibiting pre-coat? And lastly, where can I find a decent amount of automotive paint that matches my car?
Thanks for the advice,
A.
Regards:
Oldengineer
I don't have a lot of tools (grinders, etc.) but I do have a Dremmel, and the spots are pretty small right now...that sounds like something I could do. Do you have any recommendations at the point where I finish grinding down the paint/rust, how do I prepare the surface for paint? You said extended rust converter, that's something I've never heard of. Is there like an automotive primer that I should be using, or a rust-inhibiting pre-coat? And lastly, where can I find a decent amount of automotive paint that matches my car?
Thanks for the advice,
A.
Oldengineer
02-25-2010, 11:26 PM
Extend was a brand of rust convertor paint made by Duro. It came in a liquid that you could brush on or as a spray on primer (Advance Auto had it last time I bought any). I used the Dremel to open up the rust blisters and clean out the loose rust. Then I'd hit the spot with the Extend and let it dry and form its hard black coating. On deep spots, I'd fill with auto spot putty and wet sand a little to make it reasonably smooth. Then I'd hit it with spray primer, and, wet sand again. The 79 Honda I had was a strange Almond color. I found some Ford truck spray touch-up paint that was close to it, and, sprayed the repair with that. You should be able to find touch-up paint that matches your car exactly. My body work wasn't the best, but, I managed to keep the rear fenders from rusting off the Honda. The Honda liked to rust out its rear wheel houses as well. Usually when I got through cleaning out the rust, I'd have a big hole to patch. I'd cut a piece of valley tin to cover the hole, paint the patch and edges of the hole with the Extend, install the tin with sheet metal screws, and then spray the whole patch with rubberized undercoating to protect it.
Regards:
Oldengineer
Regards:
Oldengineer
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