2000 Axle Assembly Replacement

Hello,

The front bulb on my 2000 Grand Prix's axle assembly is broken and split open. The whole arm may need to be replaced. Is this a major job or something the average DIYer can do himself? It LOOKS easy since they sell the whole axle arm as one part, but I don't know.

Attaching a pic just to make sure I'm talking about the right part. The broken assembly is on the passenger side, if that makes a difference.

Just to add, I know how to take the wheel bearring hub out so that's about the level of my mechanical abilities. :cool:

There is a couple of options to this. One is to take it to a shop and have a new boot put on. That is depending on whether you are getting grinding coming from the CV joint. This is not always a guaranteed fix though. I had one done that way and never had a problem. The other option is to replace the half-shaft. I was able to get one for my 2000 GP from O'reilly for about $55 dollars. Since you have done a hub replacement, you're half way there. In this you don't have to take off the hub. You need to separate the tie rod end from the knuckle, separate the ball joint and pull the knuckle out of the way after taking the hub nut off and pressing the shaft from the hub. The shaft pulls out with the help of a pry bar. Then replace with a new one. A Haynes manual is very helpful in this and I think there might even be a tip here on the site in replacing it. It really isn't that difficult if you are fairly handy and have the proper tools. Good Luck.

Also, just to help. The half-shafts are different lengths. I believe the drivers side is shorter.

Well, it's grinding terribly and popping. The wheel bearring hub wires are also cut so I'm not sure which bit of damage is specifically causing what problem. But overall it's grinding metal on metal and tearing up my brake pads and rotor. I thought it was just the wheel bearring wires but when I took the tire off I saw that the axle assembly bulb was broken and grease was everywhere.

Which part of the axle assembly is the knuckle?

The knuckle is what the hub is bolted to. The wire you show as being cut is for the ABS or the speedometer. I believe its for the ABS tho. Its my opinion that you will have to replace the Hub bearing. Is the female plug still there? Based on what you said, you will have to replace the half-shaft. Since you will have to replace the hub, this will be a great time to do the half-shaft at the same time. I was able to get replacement hubs through ebay for a great price, if I recall for around $60-$80 for the front hub. I'm not sure how the rotor and brake pads are involved if the half-shaft is bad, unless the Hub bearing is coming apart as well allowing the rotor to wobble thus wearing the pad to the point it has reached the metal backing thus causing the grinding on the rotor. I would definitely not drive this car anymore until the repair is done. There is a Tip here on the site for hub replacement. Haynes has a repair manual that is good at showing how to replace the half-shaft.

The knuckle is what the hub is bolted to. The wire you show as being cut is for the ABS or the speedometer. I believe its for the ABS tho. Its my opinion that you will have to replace the Hub bearing. Is the female plug still there?

Yeah, everything is still there. Just the wires have been sliced and are dangling free in the air. The ABS light has been on for awhile but I didn't know what that meant. Hopefully I'll be able to return the hub since it's still under warranty.



I'm not sure how the rotor and brake pads are involved if the half-shaft is bad, unless the Hub bearing is coming apart as well allowing the rotor to wobble thus wearing the pad to the point it has reached the metal backing thus causing the grinding on the rotor.


I can only guess that the wire connection being cut stops something from turning properly. If I drive it for any real distance it'll grind until the rotor and caliper are both sizzling hot. I'll try to get that half shaft out when I replace the hub and see if that takes care of everything.

OK, there was an unexpected problem. I was trying to unscrew the wheel bearring hub but when I got to the last screw at the top I found that the heat from the grinding has literally melted this bolt into the knuckle. I don't know what to do about this but someone told me to try drilling through the bolt. I think I'm going to try that, but if that doesn't work, what is the actual name of the knuckle part? Because it looks like I may have to remove that whole metal frame and replace it, if that's a part they sell.

I took a picture of the problem. The resolution came out bad, but I circled the melted bolt in the knuckle just to give an idea of what I'm looking at.

OK, the weather's let up enough for me get to work and I was able to get that bolt out. I took out the ball joint nut to try to push the axle out of the knuckle but the knuckle isn't budging. I can't move it up or to the side anywhere. Hard to tell whether I'm doing something wrong or if there's some more metal melted together somewhere. Here's a couple of pictures of what I'm looking at.

Is there something I'm supposed to use to move the knuckle or something else I'm supposed to unbolt?

You need to remove both the tierod & balljoint from the knuckle & swing the knuckle forward (or up). After that, if the upper strut mount does not swivel far enough, you may need to remove the lower strut bolts. Before doing that, be sure to scribe location marks, so you can reinstall close to the original location. BTW, you will need an alignment after this.

After that, if the upper strut mount does not swivel far enough, you may need to remove the lower strut bolts.

Do you mean these?

Do you mean these?
I've edited your picture to show the Tierod. The ball joint is the connection at the very bottom that the whole assembly swivels on. If you remove both the tierod and the balljoint, you may be able to swing the assembly out of the way. If not, then go to plan b, which is the bolts YOU have high-lighted. The thing you should mark is the threads where the tierod end link is connected to the tierod end link ball joint. You want to thread the tie rod back on to the same spot it was before you removed it.

Also, you may need a tool (axle puller or bearing puller?) to push the half-shaft from the hub. Sometimes, the half-shaft gets locked into the hub and requires pressure to push it out. Once out the new one will slide in fairly easy. If it doesn't, you should be able to get enough of the new half-shaft in thru the hub in order to use the hub nut to pull it in to the hub.

Also, you may need a tool (axle puller or bearing puller?) to push the half-shaft from the hub. Sometimes, the half-shaft gets locked into the hub and requires pressure to push it out. Once out the new one will slide in fairly easy. If it doesn't, you should be able to get enough of the new half-shaft in thru the hub in order to use the hub nut to pull it in to the hub.

He's already past that point.... :rofl:

There is no need to remove the threaded portion of the tie rod shaft. To remove the tie rod "ball joint" all you have to do is remove the cotter pin & nut from the bottom of the knuckle, then reinstall the nut about three turns on the threads and hit the nut with a hammer. It should pop right out of the knuckle so you can lift it out & push it to the side.

It seemed like something came up every time I sat down to work on it, but I finally got it fixed. The knuckle didn't lift off the the ball joint bolt so I ended up taking out the lower strut bolts and moving the knuckle that way. Then I tapped out the half-shaft with a monkey wrench and a hammer. I was actually just trying to grip the half-shaft with the wrench for leverage, but just that little bit of force popped it right out.


Thanks for the help guys!

...And now my driver's side axle assembly is gone. Is the repair job the same for the half shaft on that side?