Source for rubber-backed metal sheets for photo etching?

Is anyone aware of a source for rubber-backed sheets that can be used for DIY photo-etching?

Not sure about this, but send a PM to Gio (gionc) he seems to know his way around PE manufacturing. Maybe he has a tip for you.:)

HTH!

Emil

Gio recommended SAEMANN Ätztechnik
saemann-aetztechnik [at] t-online.de

Thanks Alex.

I have that strore already from Jaykay's WIP but apart from the fact I don't speak a word of German, even after browsing and using babel fish, I don't think they have any.

Google has turned up absolutely nothing for me on this so I am beginning to wonder if rubber-backing is not an in-house part of the chemical milling process...?

Sorry, I didn't notice that you were looking for rubber-backed ones, thought you menat the ones that have the photoresist on them. My bad, but good luck and do let us know if you manage to find a source for these materials.

By the way, I did not have much trouble communicating with the Saemann guy in English.

Hello
I have had photo-etch produced with the rubber backing. If I am not mistaken it is applied during the process. But to make sure 100% contact this company they did the rubber backed etch for me.

http://www.imei.net/

Thanks Alex.

I have that strore already from Jaykay's WIP but apart from the fact I don't speak a word of German, even after browsing and using babel fish, I don't think they have any.

Google has turned up absolutely nothing for me on this so I am beginning to wonder if rubber-backing is not an in-house part of the chemical milling process...?

Buddy, if German is in need, I´m your man!


Robert

Steve: Mr. Saemann spell a good english :D, may be a bit "sharpen" and less fluent than your :D

I think you'll just etch a normal plate from one only side, keeping the red adesive foil in the other. I see MFH do so. I done experiments at my PE adventure begin: it come out just great, I got a sheet of nuts and roundels that sleep after years on its red foil.

Only thing is that you can't achieve an "engraved" effect, I tried using gray levels on the film but I didn't improoved the system to an acceptable level.

Steve: Mr. Saemann spell a good english :D, may be a bit "sharpen" and less fluent than your :D

I think you'll just etch a normal plate from one only side, keeping the red adesive foil in the other. I see MFH do so. I done experiments at my PE adventure begin: it come out just great, I got a sheet of nuts and roundels that sleep after years on its red foil.

Only thing is that you can't achieve an "engraved" effect, I tried using gray levels on the film but I didn't improoved the system to an acceptable level.

Thanks :thumbsup:

I will give that a try :)

Klutz, Go to a hardware store and ask them for the liquid rubber that is used to dip tool handles in. It comes two ways: in a can that you can brush on to the metal or as a spraycan. Spraycan is easier, use two coats. Works great. I've gotten it at Ace Hardware, Lowes and Home Depot. Ettore

Klutz, Go to a hardware store and ask them for the liquid rubber that is used to dip tool handles in. It comes two ways: in a can that you can brush on to the metal or as a spraycan. Spraycan is easier, use two coats. Works great. I've gotten it at Ace Hardware, Lowes and Home Depot. Ettore

VERY interesting. Thanks!

Any chance you could post a photo of the spray-can? :D Please :)

I looked to see if I had a can to tell you who makes the stuff but don't have any. After opening, it drys up in a month or two, no matter how air tight I make the top seal. You wouldn't have any problem finding it. Ettore Proud member of ACME

I looked to see if I had a can to tell you who makes the stuff but don't have any. After opening, it drys up in a month or two, no matter how air tight I make the top seal. You wouldn't have any problem finding it. Ettore Proud member of ACME

Would that be the rubber stuff like you use to dip tool handles into for a better grip? Something like Plastidip? (http://www.plastidip.com/)

As mentioned above the rubber coating for tools is what I use and it works great. Use the spray and at least two medium to light coats.

Using the rubber backing lets you do photo-etch without any frets and metal parts will come off easily with a bit of acetone.

Be sure your metal is clean before you spray.

I don't understand the difference between a rubber film or the adesive red backing film that the pre-sensitive plates has: does this meant that you Steve are doing experiment with Positiv20 laquer?
I never got decent results with it so I'm quite interested to see other's experiences.
It may have incredible developments on the "chemical milling" way on 3D objects: imagine a brass cylinder with radial engravings, ex. a 1/24 alternator; obviously it would need a special UV source all around....

Here is a pic of the rubber backed photo-etch that I had made for a Cortina that I would like to produce with full details.
http://images19.fotki.com/v276/photos/1/1262502/6613678/various-vi.jpg

Thank you all again for our very useful and great input! I appreciate it all very much.

I will share any lessons I learn - good and bad ;)
(but please don't hold your breath! LOL)