1994 K1500 5.7L V8 AUTO- I screw'd up

Ok, Scenario:

Coasting to stoplight and truck stalls (I've had issues with injectors but that's not what this post is about) so while rolling, like a dumb @$$, I put the truck into PARK and hear the infamous CLICKING sound... I freak out about what a dumb @$$ move I just did and stop the truck... start it up no problem and drive home... listening to the transmission, i hear nothing...

Next day, drive truck and still hear nothing... BUT, on the way home, now I hear a clicking or tinging underneath the transmission... it's intermitent and there's no rhythm to it at all...

Truck shift's fine... no slipping, grinding (from what I can tell).... nothing...

What the heck did I do and can I fix it.... HOw deep are my pocket's going to have to go on this one...

Also, every so often... probably every 4th or 5th start, the starter catches and it takes about 3 attempts for me to get the truck started...

Again, how back did I mess up...

Any and all info is greatly appreciated...

Thanks in advance...

Rod

It sounds like there may be two (or three) separate issues. The hard starting is not likely related to the transmission.

It would be good to drain the fluid and remove the trans pan for inspection. Look along the left side at the linkage which actuates the park pawl and the pawl itself. Take a close look at the output drum where the pawl engages and the case around the area where the pawl pivot pin is held.

http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/4L60EParkPawlLocation.jpg

If there is no serious damage, clean up any chips and debris, add a new filter, and refill the trans.

As for the hard starting, if the starter is engaging and cranking normally but the engine is not starting, you're likely dealing with the same problem that is causing the stalling. I'd look into fuel delivery first.

Thanks for the info Blue Bowtie...

My only question... what do I use to re-seal the bottom pan... Never changed tranny fluid before...

Thanks...

The original pan gasket may be serviceable and requires no sealant. If you purchase a new trans filter it will normally include a pan gasket. If the original gasket becomes damaged when removing the pan, try to find a gasket made of impregnated fiber rather than cork. The cork will leak eventually.

It might also be a really good time to install a drain plug in the pan if you can tack weld a nut on the inside:

http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/TransPanPlug.jpg

You can also install a prefabricated drain plug kit but they tend to hang down even farther:

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/drm/65128/image/8/

Hey Blue...

I've got the filter and gasket but I have a question, when I take the pan down, will the original gasket just 'come off' or will I have to scrape it off... And, if I use the new gasket, do I need to glue or seal it on to the pan before I remount it to the tranny???

Sorry to sound dumb but this is all new to me...

Thanks again,

Rod

Oh, and it's not that the truck doesn't start, it's the starter getting bound up on the, well... I'm not sure what you call the wheel that get's the truck engine to start but it's the starter getting caught up with that wheel...

I've got the filter and gasket but I have a question, when I take the pan down, will the original gasket just 'come off' or will I have to scrape it off... And, if I use the new gasket, do I need to glue or seal it on to the pan before I remount it to the tranny???
...
Rod


If the gasket is cork, it should come off easily except from the places where the adhesive was used. If the gasket is the silicone type, you may have some extra scrapping to do. But its not hard. Just time consuming.

When placing the new gasket, use some silicone sealant to attach it to the pan, making sure the holes are lined up properly.




Oh, and it's not that the truck doesn't start, it's the starter getting bound up on the, well... I'm not sure what you call the wheel that get's the truck engine to start but it's the starter getting caught up with that wheel...

It’s the flywheel.

If the gasket is cork, it should come off easily except from the places where the adhesive was used. If the gasket is the silicone type, you may have some extra scrapping to do. But its not hard. Just time consuming.It’s the flywheel.





no no no ! you do not use any sealants of any type on any GM transmission.....that will get into the tranny and F it up !


with the correct pan gasket of the good quaility it will have bolt holes slightly smaller thaan the bolt diameter place some bolts into the pan/gasket then carefully lift pan to the tranny bottom just engage the bolts so the pan does not fall..then install the rest of the bolts...secure bolts in a crisscross pattern with a final torque of 7-10 ft lbs...normally a 1/4 inch rathet is suffecient ...

the OEM pan gasket is a rubber type of material very flexible and usually comes of easy...the gasket I use is a rubber gasket that is reuseable working on 4X ....

cork is not to be used as this is a material that can and will break of and F things up inside the tranny....

clean the pan with paint thinner mineral spirits and using a cloth...
then with a hair dryer blow down the pan so it looks perfect ...

no no no ! you do not use any sealants of any type on any GM transmission.....that will get into the tranny and F it up !


with the correct pan gasket of the good quaility it will have bolt holes slightly smaller thaan the bolt diameter place some bolts into the pan/gasket then carefully lift pan to the tranny bottom just engage the bolts so the pan does not fall..then install the rest of the bolts...secure bolts in a crisscross pattern with a final torque of 7-10 ft lbs...normally a 1/4 inch rathet is suffecient ...

the OEM pan gasket is a rubber type of material very flexible and usually comes of easy...the gasket I use is a rubber gasket that is reuseable working on 4X ....

cork is not to be used as this is a material that can and will break of and F things up inside the tranny....

clean the pan with paint thinner mineral spirits and using a cloth...
then with a hair dryer blow down the pan so it looks perfect ...


Nevermind, listen to j cAT.

So thats what I did wrong lol! j/k, actually Ive only changed oil pan gaskets on japanese imports and assumed that the same process would work on GM as well.

Glad you caught his one!

Great info guys... Thanks...

Knocked down sick right now but as soon as I'm up and about, i'll be doing the tranny fluid change...

Thanks again...

Rod N.

quick question: What is the estimated time it should take to do this job...

I wanted to get to it this evening but was only able to change my oil... That takes me about 30 minutes... It started to get dark and I didn't want to start messing with something I've never done in the dark... Last thing I need is to mess something up and have to pay out the nose...

Anyhow... I should get the job done tomorrow afternoon or later... we're expected to get rain early in the day so I'll be waiting for it to pass and dry up...

Thanks again for the info...

quick question: What is the estimated time it should take to do this job...

I wanted to get to it this evening but was only able to change my oil... That takes me about 30 minutes... It started to get dark and I didn't want to start messing with something I've never done in the dark... Last thing I need is to mess something up and have to pay out the nose...

Anyhow... I should get the job done tomorrow afternoon or later... we're expected to get rain early in the day so I'll be waiting for it to pass and dry up...

Thanks again for the info...

allow yourself about 3 hrs..take time to clean the pan and check out the tranny ..the pan may not require removal of other componets ..check that the pan will drop with out any other removals..

if for some reason you find broken parts and will need another day to complete put the pan back on to protect from contamination..

check the fly wheel, sounds like it may have busted around the center where the bolts are. you should be able to remove the converter cover and look around bolt area of fly wheel and see any cracks. they some times hard to see.

alright... Got the tranny pan off... crazy silver jelly-like square thing on the bottom of the pan... should I take it out... it seems to be stuck to the pan...

alright... Got the tranny pan off... crazy silver jelly-like square thing on the bottom of the pan... should I take it out... it seems to be stuck to the pan...

That is the magnet. Clean it well and put it back in the same spot. The pan is usually marked where it should be.

Did you find any broken pieces of the park pawl? Did you take it out and look at it?

//2000CAYukon

Alright - Done for tonight... Not a terribly hard job but damn messy...

Here's the recap

Park Prawl Looked Good - NO damaged pieces or anything like that

Nothing in the pan meaning broken pieces, shrapnel or the like

Crazy square thing attatched to pan on inside - I believe is a maganet to attract metal pieces as they enter the pan... yes/no?

Damnit man - gasket I believe is coark, not the empregnated material - should I go ahead and use it or try to swap it out?

filter seal - damn thing's made out of metal - old one was a pain in the ass to get out and the new one wasn't too terribly hard to get in... Just have to slowly tap it in from all sides...

Right now, I've got the new filter seal, filter, cork gasket and pan on but I haven't added any tranny fluid until I hear back from ya'll about whether I should take out the cork gasket and replace it with the empregnated fiber...

Thanks for all your help guys, cldn't have done it without ya'lls help...

Metal filter seal is always harder coming out than going in. I already posted that is a magnet and you should clean it.

Is the cork gasket a new one that came with the filter? Personally, I don't like to use them since they will leak over time. If you decide to use, just keep on eye it every oil change.

//2000CAYukon

Hahaha... I figured it was... I didn't take it out and clean it cause I thought it was glued to the pan... I did clean it well though...

Should I take it off and clean it?

I didn't take the parking parwl off... should I? Is it difficult?

Thanks...

Yes, the cork gasket is a new one and yes, it did come with the new filter and seal... I went with AC Delco just to be safe (from Super Parts)...

I have no problem swapping out the gasket if you'd recommend it... That's why I didn't add the tranny fluid...

check the fly wheel, sounds like it may have busted around the center where the bolts are. you should be able to remove the converter cover and look around bolt area of fly wheel and see any cracks. they some times hard to see.

Don't I need to take out the transmission to get to the flywheel? IF not, how would I go about it...

for now just remove the cover, this should give you enough room to look at the flywheel to check for cracks. if it in fact cracked. the yes you will need to remove trans. back enough to get to the flywheel to change it. the fly wheel is prone to bust around the center, especialy when put into park while moveing.

for now just remove the cover, this should give you enough room to look at the flywheel to check for cracks. if it in fact cracked. the yes you will need to remove trans. back enough to get to the flywheel to change it. the fly wheel is prone to bust around the center, especialy when put into park while moveing.

Do you have a or know of an illustration?

re: Trans Gasket

I just picked one up from AutoZone made out of rubber... Would this be a better alternative than the cork trans gasket?

re: Trans Gasket

I just picked one up from AutoZone made out of rubber... Would this be a better alternative than the cork trans gasket?


like I stated earlier posting I am working on the 4th fluid change with the same rubber gasket...torque to 7-10ft lbs ...criss cross pattern ...use a small 1/4inch rachet with rubber you will never have problems with leaks this is because when you tighten the bolts the rubber locks around the bolt threads making a perfect seal and not allowing any loosening..


DO NO OVER TIGHTEN !

for now just remove the cover, this should give you enough room to look at the flywheel to check for cracks. if it in fact cracked. the yes you will need to remove trans. back enough to get to the flywheel to change it. the fly wheel is prone to bust around the center, especialy when put into park while moveing.

Removed the cover but my exhaust was in the way so I couldn't take it clean off... from what I saw, the flywheel looked in good shape and there was no shrapnal in the pan so that's a good sign...

After doing the fluid change, I still get that intermitent clinking sound... Not everytime I drive the car but it's still there...

Parking Prawl Looked to be in good condition but I wasn't sure on how to take it out and I wasn't abou to get into something that might make things worse...