Security System won't start
russ3654
02-10-2010, 03:21 PM
Intermittently when I turn the key everything comes on, but the starter won't turn over, and the security light is on. If I try it a few more times it starts. What can I do to fix or disable this function or is it in the key chip. The car does not have a alarm system. Its a '94.
maxwedge
02-10-2010, 03:34 PM
Might try a second key if you have one, also try cleaning the key and/or spray some electrical parts cleaner into the switch. If this does not help post back.
imidazol97
02-11-2010, 04:58 PM
Might try a second key if you have one, also try cleaning the key and/or spray some electrical parts cleaner into the switch. If this does not help post back.
Here's a link to one of the methods of replacing the wires that go up the column to the key contacts with resistors.
http://vats.likeabigdog.com/
Here's a link to one of the methods of replacing the wires that go up the column to the key contacts with resistors.
http://vats.likeabigdog.com/
imidazol97
02-11-2010, 05:10 PM
Intermittently when I turn the key everything comes on, but the starter won't turn over, and the security light is on. If I try it a few more times it starts. What can I do to fix or disable this function or is it in the key chip. The car does not have a alarm system. Its a '94.
The wires break the tiny strands inside where they flex with the tilt wheel. And the metal contacts in the key cylinder wear and don't contact the resistor metal contacts in the key are my theories.
If your car has a theft deterrent module like the 98's, you can jump the two wires there with resistors--that's where the tiny wires going down the column to the connector where people usually jump end up going.
There also is a circuit board, tiny, that you can connect up to the one wire from the theft deterrrent module that sends the signal to the PCM to let the injectors work. It requires a separate step of putting a jumper on the wires to the starter enable relay so it is engaged and doesn't require the theft deterrent module to turn it on. I found the circuit board on Ebay.
Note, my module would turn the security light on and then off while driving. Sometimes I would turn the key and nothing happen. I would go to OFF and retwist the key and everything worked. Eventually, the security light just never came on. There is a failure mode where the TDM thinks it's confused and just doesn't try to control the system any more. I had the resistors purchased ready to to do the series.
You'll have to measure resistance on your key and look for resistors that give the same reading within a close percentage, 5%?
The wires break the tiny strands inside where they flex with the tilt wheel. And the metal contacts in the key cylinder wear and don't contact the resistor metal contacts in the key are my theories.
If your car has a theft deterrent module like the 98's, you can jump the two wires there with resistors--that's where the tiny wires going down the column to the connector where people usually jump end up going.
There also is a circuit board, tiny, that you can connect up to the one wire from the theft deterrrent module that sends the signal to the PCM to let the injectors work. It requires a separate step of putting a jumper on the wires to the starter enable relay so it is engaged and doesn't require the theft deterrent module to turn it on. I found the circuit board on Ebay.
Note, my module would turn the security light on and then off while driving. Sometimes I would turn the key and nothing happen. I would go to OFF and retwist the key and everything worked. Eventually, the security light just never came on. There is a failure mode where the TDM thinks it's confused and just doesn't try to control the system any more. I had the resistors purchased ready to to do the series.
You'll have to measure resistance on your key and look for resistors that give the same reading within a close percentage, 5%?
big white bufflo
02-11-2010, 05:54 PM
you tube has a real nice video on the bypass type in GM BYPASS
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