Need HELP! Stuck in TX with my Blazer!!!

3 weeks ago my truck started acting up. Hesitation, Intake AND Exhaust backfires, etc. My digital dash was flickering 188 MPH at times as well. I changed the fuel pump b/c I noticed there was hardly any pressure. The truck ran fine after that for about 1 week. Then the problem occurred again on my way home to NC from TX. I broke down in San Antonio. Same symptoms. I replaced the ECU thinking the flickering dash may have been causing the problem. It wasn't. So I paid a man $700 to find the problem. He found a wire beneath the ignition pinched between the steering column bracket and where it mounts. He repaired the burnt wire. Also found 2 wires in the harness (alternator wires) were burnt as well. Those were repaired. The truck then started and ran great. So we left San Antonio to try to get back home. It broke down again in Houston. Same symptoms. Now I'm stuck in Houston with my son and g/f. Thank God I have friends here! Anyhow, I checked the harness beneath the hood, no damaged wires. Checked underneath the dash, no issues. The truck would start up like a champ! Idling with no issues. Then I would try to drive it, and hesitation would occur. I would floor it, and it would hesitate for nearly 5 or 6 seconds, then it would grab and accelerate with no issues. Ease off the gas, and hesitation begins again. So I began to replace sensors. So far, I have replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, MAP sensor, Ignition Control Module (within Distributor), Ignition coils, rotor button, distributor cap, wires and plugs. I just replaced the 2nd fuel pump in 2 weeks thinking the wire damage may have shorted the 1st F.P., but that was not the issue. It still has no fuel pressure from what I can tell. When I hooked a gauge to it first time around, I was only getting 12 psi or so. I don't have a Fuel Pressure gauge as of now, but know it's still not pressurizing like it should. Using a phillips head screw driver, I can depress the test port behind the manifold, and hardly anything comes out. It does have a new fuel filter installed as well. Fuel lines are fine. So I decided to replace the injection and spider system. (scored a setup from a good engine at the pull yard) Although I found NO leaks in incoming or return lines. After replacing those, my truck wouldn't start at all. So I went back to my original setup. Still nothing. So now my truck isn't running now at all. The ECU numbers I replaced matches the one I removed. The truck was not shooting codes during the time it had troubles, but when I replaced the TPS I got codes 22, 23, 43, 44. I cleared those codes, then got no more. Now I get a code 54. But I just replaced the damn Fuel Pump. I did bypass the factory wire from the relay to ensure the F.P. was getting power. It is. It's humming like crazy when I turn on the key. It's working. I tested voltage on both powers at the relay. Orange gets 12V when the key is turned on, Grey gets 12V when you try to crank it. It gets 12V at the fuel pump plug near the tank when you turn on the key, until the relay turns it off. The fuel injector plug gets 12V when the key is turned on. I don't know how to check OHMS however. If someone could instruct me, that would be great. The truck runs when I spray fuel into the intake. I really could use some help as I have spent $900 in the last two weeks on this truck. I don't want to let it go. It's a GREAT TRUCK! NO mechanical issues whatsoever. Help please! I don't want to buy another used vehicle just to face potential mechanical problems when I KNOW my truck is rock solid when it's running.
My truck is a 93 S10 Blazer with "W" series 4.3 Vortec.

P.S. This is NOT a timing issue. I know this b/c when the hesitation clears, the truck runs like a scalded dog! Puts ya back in the seat with no issues at all. No missing, no nothing. Also, how can I be sure the injector is working? I hear it buzzing when the plenum is off, and wires connected... I'm tired of spending money where it's not needed. If I need a FPR, does that mean I should just replace the entire injection setup?

Quick Note: I removed the out line on the intake and straight wired the fuel pump to see if I'd see anything. Nothing came out. What is the deal? Is it not supposed to be returning to the tank when the engine is not running?

3 weeks ago my truck started acting up. Hesitation, Intake AND Exhaust backfires, etc. My digital dash was flickering 188 MPH at times as well. I changed the fuel pump b/c I noticed there was hardly any pressure. The truck ran fine after that for about 1 week. Then the problem occurred again on my way home to NC from TX. I broke down in San Antonio. Same symptoms. I replaced the ECU thinking the flickering dash may have been causing the problem. It wasn't. So I paid a man $700 to find the problem. He found a wire beneath the ignition pinched between the steering column bracket and where it mounts. He repaired the burnt wire. Also found 2 wires in the harness (alternator wires) were burnt as well. Those were repaired. The truck then started and ran great. So we left San Antonio to try to get back home. It broke down again in Houston. Same symptoms. Now I'm stuck in Houston with my son and g/f. Thank God I have friends here! Anyhow, I checked the harness beneath the hood, no damaged wires. Checked underneath the dash, no issues. The truck would start up like a champ! Idling with no issues. Then I would try to drive it, and hesitation would occur. I would floor it, and it would hesitate for nearly 5 or 6 seconds, then it would grab and accelerate with no issues. Ease off the gas, and hesitation begins again. So I began to replace sensors. So far, I have replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, MAP sensor, Ignition Control Module (within Distributor), Ignition coils, rotor button, distributor cap, wires and plugs. I just replaced the 2nd fuel pump in 2 weeks thinking the wire damage may have shorted the 1st F.P., but that was not the issue. It still has no fuel pressure from what I can tell. When I hooked a gauge to it first time around, I was only getting 12 psi or so. I don't have a Fuel Pressure gauge as of now, but know it's still not pressurizing like it should. Using a phillips head screw driver, I can depress the test port behind the manifold, and hardly anything comes out. It does have a new fuel filter installed as well. Fuel lines are fine. So I decided to replace the injection and spider system. (scored a setup from a good engine at the pull yard) Although I found NO leaks in incoming or return lines. After replacing those, my truck wouldn't start at all. So I went back to my original setup. Still nothing. So now my truck isn't running now at all. The ECU numbers I replaced matches the one I removed. The truck was not shooting codes during the time it had troubles, but when I replaced the TPS I got codes 22, 23, 43, 44. I cleared those codes, then got no more. Now I get a code 54. But I just replaced the damn Fuel Pump. I did bypass the factory wire from the relay to ensure the F.P. was getting power. It is. It's humming like crazy when I turn on the key. It's working. I tested voltage on both powers at the relay. Orange gets 12V when the key is turned on, Grey gets 12V when you try to crank it. It gets 12V at the fuel pump plug near the tank when you turn on the key, until the relay turns it off. The fuel injector plug gets 12V when the key is turned on. I don't know how to check OHMS however. If someone could instruct me, that would be great. The truck runs when I spray fuel into the intake. I really could use some help as I have spent $900 in the last two weeks on this truck. I don't want to let it go. It's a GREAT TRUCK! NO mechanical issues whatsoever. Help please! I don't want to buy another used vehicle just to face potential mechanical problems when I KNOW my truck is rock solid when it's running.
My truck is a 93 S10 Blazer with "W" series 4.3 Vortec.

P.S. This is NOT a timing issue. I know this b/c when the hesitation clears, the truck runs like a scalded dog! Puts ya back in the seat with no issues at all. No missing, no nothing. Also, how can I be sure the injector is working? I hear it buzzing when the plenum is off, and wires connected... I'm tired of spending money where it's not needed. If I need a FPR, does that mean I should just replace the entire injection setup?

Quick Note: I removed the out line on the intake and straight wired the fuel pump to see if I'd see anything. Nothing came out. What is the deal? Is it not supposed to be returning to the tank when the engine is not running?

Does fuel pump run key on 2 second prime up?
Does it run straight wired?

If not check for good ground.
If good ground and 12 volts to and no run time for another fuel pump.

Does fuel pump run key on 2 second prime up?
Does it run straight wired?

If not check for good ground.
If good ground and 12 volts to and no run time for another fuel pump.

Fuel pump runs both straight wired, and connected to F.P. relay. Tested all wires, 12V on orange, 12V on Gray when starting is attempted. F.P. does prime whey keyed.

Fuel pump runs both straight wired, and connected to F.P. relay. Tested all wires, 12V on orange, 12V on Gray when starting is attempted. F.P. does prime whey keyed.

If fuel pump runs and not out of gas and no fuel pressure you pump is bad.
Got fuel in it?
How cold is it there?

If fuel pump runs and not out of gas and no fuel pressure you pump is bad.
Got fuel in it?
How cold is it there?

I got my truck running again. Sounds good at idle and rev, but won't know how it is driving until I get the tank strapped back on! I replaced the entire Fuel Injection system for about $300. All Brand New.

I got my truck running again. Sounds good at idle and rev, but won't know how it is driving until I get the tank strapped back on! I replaced the entire Fuel Injection system for about $300. All Brand New.
What part did you replace.
Let us knbow how it goes.

What part did you replace.
Let us knbow how it goes.

It drives fantastic! I still have a check engine light, but that's b/c I bypassed the Gray wire from the relay to the Fuel Pump. So as far as the computer knows, the relay is failing. I get code 54. Maybe one day, I will resolve that issue when I decide to drop the tank again to get to the wires I bypassed and splice them back in. Until then, I'm just happy my truck is running like a champ again!

Since this fiasco, I've replaced the entire fuel system, except lines, and every component of the ignition system, and almost every major relay on the truck. Replacing the fuel injection with new injector, and regulator did the job. Thanks all! Total cost of all my parts, and labor with wire harness repair=$1200.