1994 lt-1 tune up which plugs/opti
4evrbad
02-09-2010, 07:18 PM
My 94 needs a tune up , im replacing water pump, distributor, wires, plugs and the coil. I'm looking for advice on which plugs to buy, there are many brands most offer platnum or iridium. and 1, 2, or 4 electrodes some are not gap-able. all are 5 -10 each, price makes no difference just want a good plug. I also need a new opti-spark. I've been told to stay away from reman I've looked them up and found the cheapest new one on e-bay(of course) for 130 w/new wiring harness from aip electronics(chinese?). also jegs has theirs for 250 summit has an accell for 260 or oem for about 400. any input on this is appreciated
96capricemgr
02-09-2010, 07:31 PM
It is a distributor, you can just do a cap and rotor change on it. Cap and rotor will probably still be $120 or so, if you want to do more then your GOOD choices are Delco Delco or Delco. Have heard some good stuff about Thepartsladi on ebay, a LOT cheaper than dealer prices.
On the sparkplugs go with the 1996 spec double platinum AC Delcos.
Multiple electrodes are a GIMICK. Only advantage platinum or iridium have is they do not wear as fast as regular old plugs. Most of us who play with our cars buy cheap copper plugs and change them once a year but if I were looking to do a tuneup and forget about it those are the parts I would use.
On the sparkplugs go with the 1996 spec double platinum AC Delcos.
Multiple electrodes are a GIMICK. Only advantage platinum or iridium have is they do not wear as fast as regular old plugs. Most of us who play with our cars buy cheap copper plugs and change them once a year but if I were looking to do a tuneup and forget about it those are the parts I would use.
Blt2Lst
02-09-2010, 08:43 PM
4evrbad
02-10-2010, 01:00 PM
I wish I could do just the cap and rotor, but it is the original unit in the car with over 130,000. The car had a small coolant leak, and now wont turn over, I'm almost certain the distributor is bad along with the cap and rotor. I also found a delco for 340, i'm leaning towards the delco, but I wouldnt mind saving a couple hundred bucks if I knew the other distributors would hold up.
j cAT
02-10-2010, 05:33 PM
I wish I could do just the cap and rotor, but it is the original unit in the car with over 130,000. The car had a small coolant leak, and now wont turn over, I'm almost certain the distributor is bad along with the cap and rotor. I also found a delco for 340, i'm leaning towards the delco, but I wouldnt mind saving a couple hundred bucks if I knew the other distributors would hold up.
when you install the water pump , install a weep hole 12inch long tubing . this will keep the dripping away from the distributor...
I have found some very good pictures and instructions on the internet on how to do this properly [replace distributor] , and with the pictures it is not that difficult..
I have also found but , with greater difficulty , to disassemble the distributor clean and re-install..
with 130,ooo the cap rotor is worn ...depending on how much coolant got to it the distributor could go for another 50,ooomi...
when you install the water pump , install a weep hole 12inch long tubing . this will keep the dripping away from the distributor...
I have found some very good pictures and instructions on the internet on how to do this properly [replace distributor] , and with the pictures it is not that difficult..
I have also found but , with greater difficulty , to disassemble the distributor clean and re-install..
with 130,ooo the cap rotor is worn ...depending on how much coolant got to it the distributor could go for another 50,ooomi...
Blue Bowtie
02-14-2010, 08:27 AM
I've had good luck with a Borg-Warner replacement cap and rotor. Clean the interruptor discs and optical sensor arrays and install the new cap and rotor. If you rebuild you Opti, apply silicone dielectric compound to the connector sockets. Make sure the O ring seals are cleaned and lubricated as well.
Make sure you get a cap/rotor (or entire Opti is you go that way) for a B/D-Body since it will have the necessary ventilation connections. Survey the vacuum control/check valve and tubing to verify that the vent system is operating properly.
Use the AC full platinum (double platinum electrode) plugs at 0.050". The number used to be 41-943. Apply a thin layer of antiseize compound to the plug threads before installing.
Use the Packard Electric plug wires and BE CERTAIN to route them through the factory looms in exactly the same manner as the originals. That's about a two hour job alone, but necessary.
Clean and reinstall the factor plug boot heat shields. You can thank me later. If you get lazy and decide not to use them, please contact me as I would like to acquire your "spares" since they are getting difficult to find. They are a great problem-solver part to have available on stock engines and are ideal for header installations on almost any engine.
Make sure the ICM (on the front of the left head) is cleaned, has a fresh layer of heat sink compound applied to the backside, and has good connections.
Clean and test the ignition coil.
Make sure you get a cap/rotor (or entire Opti is you go that way) for a B/D-Body since it will have the necessary ventilation connections. Survey the vacuum control/check valve and tubing to verify that the vent system is operating properly.
Use the AC full platinum (double platinum electrode) plugs at 0.050". The number used to be 41-943. Apply a thin layer of antiseize compound to the plug threads before installing.
Use the Packard Electric plug wires and BE CERTAIN to route them through the factory looms in exactly the same manner as the originals. That's about a two hour job alone, but necessary.
Clean and reinstall the factor plug boot heat shields. You can thank me later. If you get lazy and decide not to use them, please contact me as I would like to acquire your "spares" since they are getting difficult to find. They are a great problem-solver part to have available on stock engines and are ideal for header installations on almost any engine.
Make sure the ICM (on the front of the left head) is cleaned, has a fresh layer of heat sink compound applied to the backside, and has good connections.
Clean and test the ignition coil.
96capricemgr
02-14-2010, 12:01 PM
Blue makes a good point, when shopping for an opti or cap tall places you have a 95. In 94 the Vette and f-body got a unvented opti and those parts wont fit for you. The fact that it was different on the b-body vs. the other LT1 cars in 94 creates a LOT of confusion, so just pretend you have a 95.
sgbuick
02-14-2010, 11:29 PM
jcat, can you point me to where the diagram with the tubing in the waterpump might be located on the web? Would very much like to see that. Also, how do you keep the tubing from falling out of the hole, since it is so close to the belt underneath?
j cAT
02-15-2010, 08:25 AM
jcat, can you point me to where the diagram with the tubing in the waterpump might be located on the web? Would very much like to see that. Also, how do you keep the tubing from falling out of the hole, since it is so close to the belt underneath?
with a 1/8 in vacuum connector stuck in the hole and a vacuum line connected to this plastic fitting you simply route the flexable rubber vac line off to th driverside about 12-18 inches long..this will cause any drips to fall away from every thing... use tyraps / wire ties to hold the hose to the oil cooler lines use you imagination ..if the 1/8 is loose use next size larger...
with a 1/8 in vacuum connector stuck in the hole and a vacuum line connected to this plastic fitting you simply route the flexable rubber vac line off to th driverside about 12-18 inches long..this will cause any drips to fall away from every thing... use tyraps / wire ties to hold the hose to the oil cooler lines use you imagination ..if the 1/8 is loose use next size larger...
4evrbad
02-17-2010, 08:57 PM
Thanks for all tips and advice, last question are the f-body (camaro firebird) spark plug wire sets interchangeable with the b-body? any difference?
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