EGR Valve for 2000 Grand Prix Error Code

Hi, I am new to this forum and am looking for some advice. I have a 2000 Grand Prix 3.1 Cylinder with around 125,000 miles.

My service engine light came on for a few days and then suddenly shut off for a about a day. Now, it has been on for almost 2 weeks. I took it to Autozone and they told me it was reading 3 error codes all having to do with the EGR valve. The only thing I have noticed is whenever I first start the engine it quickly goes to around 1,000 RPM then quickly back down to 500 RPM at which point it sounds like it is going to stall, but then it kind of picks itself up just a bit and stays consistent. Could this also be an IACV or would that have shown up also when I had it read at Autozone?

Thanks. :smile:

UPDATE: I ended up taking it to a shop and they fixed it for $120. The SEL light it out and I have had no problems! Not sure what they did. They did bill me $6 for a "cleaner", though.

Welcome to AF.

How about posting the 3 diagnostic trouble codes (DTC)?

Try cleaning the IAC pintle assembly and the seat on the throttle body where the IAC inserts. When you get IAC issues a code may not set even though the IAC counts are low or high or you have an abnormal idle.

Thanks BNaylor.

I actually didn't get the codes (Sorry, I know I should have). He did say they were all pointing toward the EGR valve and one of them being the "EGR Flow" or something similar to that extent.

The EGR valve is either stuck open or stuck shut. I've have had two cars do that on me and it's not that bad of a job. You can either replace it or soak it for about 12 hours in a bath of WD-40 or something similar and it should get all the gunk out of there and free up the little piston inside.

Get a Haynes manual for your car from autozone, it'll help more than you can imagine.

Okay, I think I will try that this upcoming weekend. I don't really notice any degradation while I'm driving so I'm assuming it's stuck close. I read if it's stuck open it will pretty much cause too much exhaust to mix all the time and my car will stall while idling.

What do you think of this video as far as cleaning the IAC? It seems quick and dirty. :naughty:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i82s4ZfR2js

I actually didn't get the codes (Sorry, I know I should have).

Best to go back to Autozone as long as the SES/CEL light is still on, rescan and give you the codes. Then post them here.

And I would not assume the EGR valve is the sole cause or cleaning it will resolve your issue without review of the DTCs and further troubleshooting. The part is expensive just to swap it out arbitrarily or worse yet damage the electrical component part if you do not clean it properly.

I agree with Bob, its best to get the codes and post them for us. The Autozone parts monkeys are there to sell parts. The get commission on the parts they sell so they don't care if what they sell you actually fixes the problem or not. I had one guy scan my car once and it came back with a P0300. He told me "it's probably the ignition controll module" and a new one costed 150.00. I said no thanks.

And do not do that IAC cleaning in the video. That guy seems like the only reason he's working on his daddy's car is probably because his dad said he can take it to the Sci-Fi convention which he is late for because the car wouldn't start.

Spraying carb cleaner into your intake can damage all sorts of things including your $350.00 Mass Air Flow sensor. Not to mention it can damage the coil windings of the IAC (which is probably why his quit working in the first place). I can almost guarentee that loser did not fix the problem for any more than a few cold startups when all that carb cleaner he sprayed in there finally got burnt off. If he's such a genius why doesn't he replace the IAC in that car himself. It doesn't look so bad.

Haha, okay I'm going to go today and get the 3 codes and come back with them.

Yeah, after I posted that I realized it was exactly that "quick and dirty". I just don't think I'm ready to take off my IAC valve and clean it without screwing something up. In fact, I didn't even know it existed until a couple of days ago.

parts monkeys...hee hee hee!

Sorry for the delay. I haven't had a chance to make it back out to Autozone. I think I'm going to make my way there today. I'm also going to pick up a fuel filter since I'm pretty sure the current fuel filter has been there for a couple of years. Do you happen to know the location of the fuel filter? I'm hoping it's easy to get to.

Thanks.

*Edit*: I went but the guy didn't scan it. I guess I'll have to wait until Sunday. Since it's raining, he told me the moisture could cause the computer to throw wrong codes...dammit!

Okay, here are the codes. I got a total of 6 codes, but I'm guessing this might be because I had to go back and get it scanned again?
(2) P0401
(2) P0404
(2) P1404

Thank you.

I'm trying to take off the EGR Valve right now. I got the two bolts that mount it, but there seems to be another bolt that I think is holding the EGR pipe in place. Should I remove it? I already have to find the gasket that fell so I want to make sure I make as few mistakes as possible. Thanks!
http://i47.tinypic.com/24dhssh.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/2a7igpw.jpg

EDIT: I got the EGR Valve off. I just had to remove that bolt and the pipe came off easily. I got it soaking in carb cleaner right now, well the bottom of the EGR valve anyway. Is this the proper way? Thank you.

Okay, here are the codes. I got a total of 6 codes, but I'm guessing this might be because I had to go back and get it scanned again?
(2) P0401
(2) P0404
(2) P1404

Thank you.


The P0401 DTC is an EGR flow test issue. Check the PCV valve and grommet at the valve cover. Also, all vacuum lines at the throttle body and intake manifold. Especially at the MAP sensor behind the upper intake manifold since this is a 3100 V6 engine.

For the P0404 DTC the EGR pintle position error is too large. The desired position versus actual is greater than 15% according to what the PCM module sees. Although cleaning the EGR pintle doesn't hurt this sounds more like a defective EGR valve on the electrical side. Just to be sure check the PCM 5 volt reference signal input at the electrical connector and make sure the 12 volts is there too.

Clean only just the lower half and spring loaded pintle. Also, clean carbon out of the exhaust flange where the EGR mounts. After cleaning the spring loaded pintle lightly spray some WD40 on it and make sure it moves freely. Be sure to use a new gasket during re-install.

Okay, I have put the EGR valve back. I noticed that my PCV valve is leaking air! The elbow has a small crack running up it. I put my ear to it and pressed my thumb over it. I could hear the air changing as I kept doing this. The only thing is I can't find where to buy one. I've searched the obvious places (Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly) Any help? The SES light came back on, too. I really want to test and make sure the electrical connector is working first. How exactly do I do this? I have a degree in Electronics Engineering but I have very little experience. :D

You mean the rubber elbow the PCV is attached to?

Try taping it up tightly with electrical tape for the time being. The part should be available at a GM dealership parts department.

Also, make sure you cleared the stored DTCs with an odb-ii scan tool or the SES/CEL light may stay on or trigger again. They may clear after a few drive cycles otherwise. And disconnecting the battery doesn't always work to clear DTCS in history.

Will Autozone clear my codes for me? I've already been twice, haha.
Yes, the rubber PCV valve elbow has a crack in it. Thank you. I will try to find one. I seen a Chrysler elbow that looked about the right size if not smaller. I was thinking about buying, but I figured I should just get the correct fitting.

So, I put in a new EGR valve. I know the battery was disconnected for at least 30 minutes. I cleaned the intake port on the manifold with intake cleaner and picked chunks out of it the best I could. Finally got the new EGR valve mounted and I went to start the car and I'm pretty sure the SES light was still on. I turned the car off and popped off the tubing to the throttle body off and sprayed the throttle body with the intake cleaner (since I was already out there). Went to start it again (after some hard starting and rough idling for a bit, which I assumed was normal) the SES light went off. I'm not 100% sure as I haven't drove it or let it idle long enough to see if it will come back on. I will post back and let you know it stays gone. Thank you again for your help!

Ah..the SES light came on again. It came on around 20 miles, and I have drove ~250 miles altogether. I took to it to Autozone and the codes came back with P0401 (Insufficient Flow) and P1404 (Valve stuck open condition). The explanation for P1404 is "While monitoring the EGR valve/pintle position the ECM detected the closed position sensor voltage higher than the learned closed position voltage.

I did some research and some are saying the EGR valve/pintle position needs to be relearned. I'm thinking of buying a cheap OBD-II scanner to do this. The guy at Autozone (who use to work for GM) told me the intake gets clogged up all the time and it was very common for GM vehicles. He told me to buy some Engine Cleaner from GM that was patented that broke down carbon (he said it worked the best) and spray it in there with the engine running. It warned me it would smoke like hell, but it would get the job done. He also suggested using two gaskets and sandwiching a metal mesh screen in between it to help keep the large chunks of carbon out. Any thoughts? Thanks guys.

Any thoughts? Thanks guys.
Yeah. What about the crack in the elbow?

Yeah. What about the crack in the elbow?
I still have yet to replace it. I taped it up for the time being and it seems to be doing okay. It's $12 at the dealership for a new one which is complete ripoff. I'm trying to find the time to make it out to a junkyard sometime. Do you think that has something to do with the codes?

Okay, so it's been a while since I updated this. I bought a cheap OBD-II scanner and am still getting only a P0401 after about 2 miles of driving. After some more research I am guessing there is a clogged passageway somewhere. I cleaned out the passage from the EGR Valve into the intake manifold as best as I could without taking anything else apart.

So my question is does anyone know how to get to these passageways? I'm guessing they are somewhere inside the intake manifold? How tough of a job is this because the dealer quoted me at about $300 to fix my P0401 error.

Okay, so it's been a while since I updated this. I bought a cheap OBD-II scanner and am still getting only a P0401 after about 2 miles of driving. After some more research I am guessing there is a clogged passageway somewhere. I cleaned out the passage from the EGR Valve into the intake manifold as best as I could without taking anything else apart.

So my question is does anyone know how to get to these passageways? I'm guessing they are somewhere inside the intake manifold? How tough of a job is this because the dealer quoted me at about $300 to fix my P0401 error.